From Arirang Goyang Dreams to
Mt. JIRISAN and other Peaks.
PART 1: TREKKING DEBUT & SUNSET VIEW ON MT. JIRISAN
A beginner’s complete guide to ascending and descending Cheonwangbong Peak via
Jangteomok Shelter or Rotary Shelter.
Real first-trekking experiences, important lessons, and stories
shared by a beginner for beginners.
By: Edsel E. Jeon
Hi everyone, and thank you for taking the time to check out my very first blog entry.
First things first—this post is about my Trekking Debut, which stretched across two unforgettable days. Because of that, I’ve split the story into two parts. You’re currently reading Part 1.
In this entry, I’ll be sharing how I traded stadium lights for mountain heights—leaving behind the usual cheering crowds and stepping into the trails, peaks, and breathtaking scenery of beautiful South Korea… all while still staying loyal and supportive to the men of Bangtan Sonyeondan.
If you’re someone who has never tried hiking or trekking before, especially if you’re considering your first climb in South Korea’s national parks, this guide is written with you in mind. Think of it as a beginner-friendly companion—part story, part practical insight—from someone who also started with zero expectations, learned valuable lessons along the way, and still made it to the peaks.
I traveled to South Korea for an eight-day trip ( April 6-13 ) that was originally focused around the BTS Arirang Goyang Concert and everything related to BTS. The comeback event of BTS was supposed to be the highlight of my Spring vacation.
To cut the story short, I didn’t manage to secure a ticket to watch the event live at Goyang Stadium—not during the Members’ Day sale, and not even after trying again during the general sale… and I honestly think our internet connection back home had a lot to do with that... a much more convenient explanation than admitting that my finger might’ve been a little too slow on the mouse at exactly 7 PM—or that I didn’t use those “massage gun” gadgets many ARMY swear can put you into the top 100.
Of course, I bought merch for raffle entries to all three events and even signed up for the free Netflix Arirang raffle—but still, nothing.
When the live cinema viewing was announced, I knew I had to make the most of the situation. If I couldn’t be inside the stadium, I was still going to find a way to enjoy the event—and the trip as a whole.
After all, everything else had already been booked, especially my round-trip flight and accommodation, which I had secured more than a month before ticket selling even began. Backing out wasn’t really an option.
With eight days
available, I looked for alternative activities beyond BTS-related spots, which
I had mostly already visited on a previous trip.
Two options
stood out: HIKING and CHERRY BLOSSOMS.
I chose hiking
instead, as cherry blossoms were expected to be overcrowded. Although I’m not
naturally outdoorsy, April in South Korea offered ideal weather for hiking.
The last-minute additional itinerary turned into a decision to explore mountain trails across the
country.
From Being a
Backup Plan to Becoming the Main Highlight of The Trip
Before my
flight, I researched hiking trails around Seoul and selected key mountains for
my itinerary. I quickly
developed an interest in hiking, to the point where I no longer felt the need
to secure a concert ticket, even when some were still available. I also met
ARMYs who had managed to get VIP Soundcheck tickets on concert day. This was when I “traded” Goyang Stadium for the mountains—I had a feeling I could’ve scored a Soundcheck ticket if I tried, but I chose not to change my trekking plans.
I initially
focused on Seoul trails using a Climate Card for transport access, which made
travel convenient and affordable.
I chose three
main mountains for my debut hikes: Baegundae Peak (Mt. Bukhansan), Jaunbong
Peak (Mt. Dobongsan), and Yeonjudae Peak (Mt. Gwanaksan), all at their highest
peaks.
Thanks to AI for turning some important contents of my DIY guide
into actual pieces of art.
Baegundae Peak, Mt. Bukhansan
Jaunbong Peak, Mt. Dobongsan
Yeonjudae Peak, Mt. Gwanaksan
So why does this article mention
Part 1: My trekking debut on Mt. Jirisan?
I understand the confusion—we’ll get to that part in a short while.
You know how
algorithms work—once you search something, it keeps feeding you more of the
same. That’s exactly what happened during my selection phase, as my feed was
flooded with hiking spots across South Korea.
I found Mt.
Bugaksan and Mt. Inwangsan in Seoul, plus Mt. Seoraksan, which immediately
stood out. Seoraksan was over two hours away and not covered by the Climate
Card, but it was the most interesting. Still, Inwangsan and Bugaksan stayed
since they were connected and located in Seoul.
My lineup
became: Seoraksan as priority, followed by Bukhansan, Dobongsan, Gwanaksan, and
the interconnected Inwangsan and Bugaksan, which were placed on standby due to
early curfew near the Blue House area.
Five to six
peaks total—and I planned this despite having almost no trekking experience.
Could someone
with zero experience really pull this off in one week?
Mt. Seoraksan
is 1,708 meters at its highest peak, Daecheongbong, and is the third highest in
South Korea. It also features Ulsanbawi Rock, Biryong Falls, and Sinheungsa
Temple, accessible by cable car... plus it’s near Hyangho Beach Bus Stop, a BTS pilgrimage
site.
For actual photos and more detailed information about Mt. Seoraksan, feel free to look them up online—or better yet, check out the pages of the expert trekkers where I “skimmed” most of the information while putting together this ambitious plan. I didn’t really read everything word for word due to time constraints, but it was enough to help shape my research. I’ll leave the link in the description below so you can explore it yourself.
Winter Hiking Seoraksan’s Main Peak (Daecheongbong): Sunrise Summit Guide – The Girl with a Big Bag (
I’m not sure if it was just the algorithm doing its thing or pure coincidence, but every time I searched for anything related to trekking or trails in South Korea, thegirlwithabigbag somehow always ended up as the top recommendation. At some point, I just stopped questioning it—because honestly, it made perfect sense. Everything was laid out in a way that made hiking feel less intimidating and a lot more doable. Looking back, I probably wouldn’t have missed some of the key details I needed most while putting together my DIY guide… if I hadn’t skimmed through a few of her articles. )
Of course, there were also other notable experts who deserved a proper thank-you during my research:
Seoraksan National Park: Hiking to Daecheongbong Peak - Travel Lexx - planning to conquer your first trail or peak? This blog is a great place to start. It shares a firsthand experience of hiking Seoraksan National Park’s Daecheongbong Peak ( as well as other places around the world )—covering the actual trail conditions, effort level, and little surprises you’ll definitely want to know before you go. Think of it as a friendly heads-up from someone who’s already survived the climb so you don’t have to learn everything the hard way on the mountain.
Seoraksan (설악산) - Peaks and Penguins -
I’d recommend checking this blog because it doesn’t just list Seoraksan—it actually helps you understand what hiking in South Korea feels like. From routes and highlights to practical insights, it gives a clearer picture of what to expect on the trail, especially if you’re planning your own mountain adventures like mine.
Daecheongbong Hike (대청봉) – Seoraksan’s Highest Summit - Check out this blog because it offers genuinely field-tested hiking insights in South Korea ( and the world ), focusing on routes that have been personally explored and proven worthwhile. Instead of generic recommendations or recycled lists, it provides practical, experience-based guidance that helps hikers save time and avoid guesswork when planning their trips.
NATIONAL PARK - KOREA NATIONAL PARK - Of course, alongside personal blogs and travel stories, it’s also important to consult the official source for accurate and up-to-date park information.
SUDDENLY... My Spontaneous Hiking Debut Needed a Major Adjustment:
Mt. Seoraksan OUT, Mt. Jirisan IN.
Change was inevitable...
While planning my route to Seoraksan, I discovered that the trails to Seoraksan’s highest peak are currently closed until the middle of April due to Spring forest fire prevention or something along those lines... or maybe it was just nature, basically playing BTS’s “Not Today.”
This meant I had to adjust my plans accordingly. Take note that only the trails leading to its peaks are currently closed. Access to other areas, such as the cable car ride, is still available. For the most updated information, please visit the official Seoraksan National Park website before planning your trip.
With Mt. Seoraksan off the table, I turned my attention to the other two highest mountains in South Korea. Naturally, it had to be one of the highest—because I wanted my trekking debut to be as impactful as a BTS comeback.
The tallest, Mt. Hallasan on Jeju Island, was tempting—but realistically, climbing it would take up most of my trip.
That left only one option: the second-highest peak, Mt. Jirisan's highest peak, Cheonwangbong.
Unlike some other national parks with limited peak trails that are often closed for seasonal restrictions, fortunately, Mt. Jirisan offers at least 12 different trails. Even if a few are off-limits during Spring, there are still plenty of options for reaching the summit... and, interestingly enough, two of those turned out to be the most popular routes for beginners.
So the plan shifted: from aiming for the third highest mountain to conquering the second highest.
And just like that, the ARMY—who spontaneously “became a trekker” after missing out on a BTS soundcheck ticket—decided to debut at the highest peak of Mt. Jirisan.
The final mountains and peaks I intended to visit were as follows:
April 7 – Sunset Viewing* at Cheonwangbong Peak of Mt. Jirisan
Quick Facts about the Venue for My Debut:
* Mt. Jirisan is the second-highest mountain in South Korea, with its highest peak,Cheonwangbong, reaching about 1,915 meters.
* It is part of the first designated national park in South Korea, established in 1967.
* The mountain spans across three provinces: Jeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, and Gyeongsangnam-do.
* Mt. Jirisan is famous for its diverse hiking trails (over 10 main routes) and rich biodiversity.
* It is well-known for its sunrise views and “sea of clouds” (cloud ocean) scenery, especially from Cheonwangbong Peak.
Into Kdrama series/movies?
The K-drama Jirisan stars two of South Korea’s most famous actors, Jun Ji-hyun (My Love from the Star, Kingdom) and Ju Ji-hoon (Kingdom, The Haunted Palace). The series follows park rangers working in Jirisan National Park... but it’s best to watch the show after you climb Mt. Jirisan.
Thank you, AI for this poster:
April 8 – Sunrise Viewing at Cheonwangbong Peak of Mt. Jirisan
April 9 – AM to PM = BTS Day 1 concert... go to the venue for moral support... and buy some BTS merch. Night trek at Inwangsan Peak...
April 10 – Baegundae Peak of Mt. Bukhansan
April 11 – Day trek at Inwangsan Peak to Bugaksan Peak ( Depending on the time. ) Must go to Gangnam by 4PM to get the ticket for BTS Live Viewing.
April 12 – Jaunbong Peak of Mt. Dobongsan
April 13 – Yeonjudae Peak of Mt. Gwanaksan and then head to the airport by 4PM for my flight back to the Philippines.
Estimated Total KM: 60-65KM
Estimated Total Elevation: 4750-5000M
Confidence Level: 10/10
Optimism: 10/10
Reality Check: Incoming. lol!
Now, back to
the big question: why on earth would I sign up for something this demanding,
especially after saying I had zero real trekking experience?
The answer is
pretty simple… I’m confidently
beautiful with a heart. lol!
Seriously, I’ve
always seen myself as sporty. I’ve done triathlons, run marathons, and cycled
distances far beyond what most people would do in a day—or even a week. Even if
I wasn’t as active as I used to be pre-pandemic, I still naturally put effort
into preparation when I set a goal. In short, once I decide on something, I
commit to finishing it.
Before planning
my South Korea trip, I had already mapped out my training schedule for the year
and resumed running on January 18. So when the BTS trip to Goyang came up, I
had initially planned a half marathon that same week as an additional
activity.
Still, adding
trekking to my itinerary—even with run training—required more than confidence general
fitness and beauty. I couldn’t ignore the fact that running, triathlon, and
trekking each demand different types of preparation, even if cardio overlaps.
After briefly
reading about Mt. Jirisan—its elevation, trails, and difficulty—I looked up
real photos and videos. The firsthand accounts from hikers made things clearer:
this was not going to be a casual walk in the mountains. It required consistent
physical preparation.
That said, I’m
not trying to exaggerate the difficulty or make it sound extreme. The trails to
Cheonwangbong Peak are generally doable, even for beginners. But “doable”
doesn’t mean something you should attempt without preparation. Many people
might finish it unprepared, but they often end up dealing with unnecessary
discomfort.
That’s why I
want to emphasize preparation—not to discourage anyone, but to make the
experience more enjoyable rather than something to just endure.
For context, I
only decided to include hiking in my itinerary a little over a month before the
trip. The idea came on March 2, 2026, which meant I had limited time to
prepare. Still, I
maximized what I had.
Back in my
hometown, Dipolog City, the highest point is Linabo Peak—known for its “3,003
steps,” though the count has since changed. From the base to the summit is
about 1.7 km, and roughly 90% of it is uphill. This became my main training
ground for Jirisan.
To compare,
Cheonwangbong Peak involves around 2 km from Rotary Shelter and about 1.7 km
from Jangteomok Shelter to the summit area, making Linabo a useful local
equivalent for training purposes. In simple
terms, I treated the climb as if I needed to complete several back-to-back
Linabo ascents before reaching the summit.
Linabo Peak is
also a well-known local pilgrimage site during Holy Week, where people walk the
Stations of the Cross. Although it is more accessible compared to Yeonjudae
Peak in South Korea, both share a similarity: signal towers at the top. The difference
is in the surroundings—Yeonjudae’s tower is guarded by military personnel,
while Linabo is more open, often with stray dogs around instead.
FYI: You can
feed stray animals in Linabo… but not in South Korea’s national parks.
View from the peak.
Locals in Linabo moved through their daily routines along the concrete path—
some making their steady ascent with practiced steps, others carefully descending in their own preferred ways.
By mid-March,
after more research, I adjusted my plan and moved my reservation from Rotary
Shelter to Jangteomok Shelter, instead of returning via the original route
after sunset.
The main reason
was the final stretch of the climb. The last 300 meters from Rotary Shelter to
Cheonwangbong Peak is extremely steep, and I felt that descending the same path
in the dark would be risky—even if I carried an excessive amount of lighting equipment.
With this
change, I aligned my training more closely with the actual hiking distances.
The April 7 route was about 9.5 km, while the April 8 climb and descent totaled
roughly 12 km.
Since Linabo
Peak is only 1.7 km from the base, I adjusted my training to better simulate
the real distance. I started doing full round trips from home to the peak and
back, totaling around 15–16 km per session.
I repeated this
three to four times a week. On flatter sections, I even ran parts of the
route—not because I enjoyed it, but to prepare my legs for sustained effort.
The goal was simple: condition my body for Cheonwangbong Peak... it wasn't for fun. It was preparation. Chaaarrriz!
Mileage Simulation... 90% hiking, 10% running.
Major Factors: Linabo Peak involves climbing entirely on concrete stairs. Cheonwangbong Peak, on the other hand, also has stair sections, but they are not all concrete—some are made of wood, some of metal, and others simply follow the natural earth. Beyond that, reaching the summit also requires other forms of ascent such as ropes, metal bars, and even a bit of scrambling. These features are completely absent in Linabo Peak, so I had to take this into account as something that would most likely shape—and significantly change—the entire experience.
In terms of
mental and spiritual preparation, I believe it varies per person—some need
both, some only one, and others may not rely on either. Personally, I make sure
both are aligned whenever I commit to a goal. Mentally, I remind myself that
anything becomes achievable once you fully commit and stay consistent from
start to finish.
Fun Facts About
My Mental Preparation for My Trekking Debut
I drafted this
article even before leaving for South Korea. It gave me an added push because
my “story” was already set in motion… lol!
I enjoy Korean
series, but I avoided watching anything related to Jirisan so it wouldn’t
influence my expectations. However, I did watch an episode of Dark Asia with
Megan before my trip, which featured a story about hikers near Mt. Bukhansan.
That story actually stuck with me and even influenced one of my night hikes in
Seoul.
Honestly, it
was partly paranoia from watching too many documentary-style shows, but overall
I still felt safe throughout my trekking itinerary in South Korea.
I also tend to
treat small events as “signs”—delays, cancellations, weather changes, or even
misplaced items. These sometimes influenced whether I pushed through or
adjusted plans. (This habit would later play a role in my Mt. Jirisan
experience.)
Spiritually, I
am Roman Catholic—not very active in formal church routines, but I always
begin, continue, and end everything with a personal prayer.
Combining
mental determination with prayer gave me a strong sense of grounding,
especially during difficult parts of the climb. At Mt. Jirisan, it helped me
push through moments when my legs were close to cramping.
Aside from the factors that obviously need preparation—like the three I mentioned earlier—there are other essential aspects during the planning phase that every beginner must seriously look into. No matter how much you train physically, you won’t get the full benefit if these factors aren’t properly considered.
1. The RIGHT OUTFIT ( Footwear and Clothing )
As I mentioned, running is basically my main sport, and over time I’ve stuck with On Running. I’ve gotten so used to how their shoes are designed—the feel of the lugs and the way they support my feet—that they’ve become my go-to pair. I also like how versatile they are, since I can easily wear them not just for running, but with my everyday outfits too.
Also, as a runner, I’m used to wearing almost the lightest garments possible when I’m out on the road—lol, seriously. I usually go for very light clothing, especially my running shorts—the shorter, the better. So when I saw what experienced hikers and trekkers wear, especially at Mount Jirisan, I knew I had to invest in the right set of garments to help me move efficiently and handle the demands of the trail.
My normal running outfit...
ON shoes and skimpy shorts even during Fujisan Marathon during Winter. :)
But since I was going to trek several mountains in South Korea during the first week of April, the temperature and the trails were clearly calling for a different kind of gear. I realized I had to invest in the right shoes as well as the right clothing—because my usual “running outfit philosophy” wasn’t going to survive that kind of terrain or weather.
Priority Task 1: Find the right pair of trekking shoes.
I primarily started the initial days of training with my ON running shoes…
since they’re basically the only sports shoes I have.
But from the very first day of trekking, I have to say they didn’t quite perform the way I expected.
I can’t really blame them—they weren’t designed for trekking. They’re made for running and would probably do fine on short, easy hiking trails, but definitely not for a serious trek like Mt. Jirisan.
I started reading about proper trekking shoes and realized there were so many things I needed to understand before deciding which pair to buy. The information was highly technical, especially for someone like me, who had no idea what to consider on different trails since I only run mostly on concrete roads. On top of that, I come from a province without direct access to most of the brands featured in hiking and trekking gear guides online.
I decided to order an unbranded pair of trekking shoes first while I continued collecting more data on which shoes to get, since the ON Shoes designed for trekking didn’t have very convincing reviews… and ordering online would take a long time to arrive.
This was the pair I bought for less than $5.
For the price, it actually played one role efficiently: providing a strong grip on slippery surfaces. I was impressed. But unfortunately, it failed in other ways that trekking shoes are expected to perform—protecting your soles from sharp or hard rocks, giving ankle support, and even keeping your feet dry in the rain.
Bottomline: When it comes to trekking shoes, aside from quality... choosing between a mid-cut and a high-cut design is probably one of the most important considerations, if I’m not mistaken. The season, terrain, and other conditions unique to a specific trail can greatly influence which cut you should go for. So if you’re thinking of buying a pair, take some time to read up on it. Here are some good resources on low-, mid-, and high-cut trekking shoes.
Important: Something I learned from watching and reading about shoes for trekking... If you’re using low- to mid-cut shoes, make sure you learn the “heel lock” lacing method—it works wonders for keeping your heel secure and preventing unnecessary slipping.
So... what shoes did I buy and use in the trails of South Korea?
Various videos and articles noted that as long as there’s no more snow, the terrain is not muddy, not raining heavily and so much more, a low to mid-cut shoes would be a great choice.
The brand that promised it could deliver the item two weeks ahead of my travel date was Adidas. The fact that I got around a $10 discount and free shipping for my first purchase from their website, plus the chance to train in them before the trip, made it the best option.
Introducing my debut trekking shoes: The Adidas Terrex Skychaser AX5 GoreTex—a smart choice for the plan, the area conditions and the season.
Thank you for helping me conquer Cheonwangbong, Inwangsan,
Baegundae, and Jaunbong Peaks.
After trekking the Jaunbong Trail of Mt. Dobongsan, I rewarded myself with a new pair of high-cut trekking shoes from Black Yak that I used in exploring Mt. Gwanaksan via the Yeonjudae Trail.
BASED ON EXPERIENCE: With Shoes
Since I’m still new to this field, I can’t share much yet about hiking or trekking shoes. But there’s one thing I can mention—something many hikers experience at some point: that tingling sensation in the toes, technically known as backpacking-induced paresthesia, usually caused by your toes being pushed to the front of your shoes during descents.
It’s sometimes referred to as “Christmas toes,” because in more severe cases, the tingling sensation can linger for so long that it lasts all the way to December.
There’s a cardinal rule in racing: don’t try anything new on race day. Looking back, I’m not entirely sure whether the tingling was caused by my Black Yak boots or my Adidas shoes. I had been using the Adidas pair consistently for seven straight days. Then, after conquering Mt. Dobongsan, I bought a pair of Black Yak boots and immediately wore them the next day at Mt. Gwanaksan.
From there, things didn’t exactly slow down—I headed straight to the airport, took the wrong train (which meant standing all the way to Incheon Terminal 1), waited for my flight to the Philippines, and even transferred to another flight to get back home.
The discomfort that comes with “Christmas toes” is no joke. During the first few days, even the simplest things—like wearing slippers—can trigger tingling and sensitivity around the toes. As of writing, I can still feel slight tingling in one or two toes, but thankfully, it’s nothing compared to how it felt during the first week.
Hiker’s toe is a different issue. It’s more directly related to the toenail turning dark due to repeated impact or pressure against the front of the shoe, especially during long descents—fortunately, it wasn’t part of the experience.
For more information about the topic: Numb Feet While Hiking? Here's How To Fix It
Now that we’ve covered the right footwear, let’s move on to the most exiting priority task related to the
RIGHT OUTFIT:
Priority Task 2: Finding the right trekking clothes.
If access to quality trekking shoes was like securing a BTS concert ticket online in my hometown, getting my hands on quality trekking clothes was like dreaming of getting an autograph from the BTS members in person—or so I thought.
All over the Philippines, especially in rural areas, thrifting is part of the culture. People from all walks of life usually spend their Friday mornings waiting for newly opened bundles of tightly packed, vacuum-sealed clothes at local markets. We call it “ukay-ukay.”
Fortunately, many of these bundles come from South Korea. These are some of the outfits I managed to find—most of them still in brand-new condition.
The North Face top with a Team Korea print and the Korean flag on it, paired with matching The North Face pants, made for the perfect trekking debut ensemble.
How much? Nothing more than $5. The best part? Not all items are used— some even come with tags.
Why so cheap? Aside from being thrifted, these types of outfits aren’t exactly in demand in this part of the country—especially during this time of year when temperatures in the Philippines can reach nearly 40°C every day.
Like this Black Yak Extreme Peak jacket—who would want to buy and wear something like this in my hometown when it’s 31°C, with a real feel of 36°C… even on a cloudy day?
Knowing that these clothes were once owned by trekkers in South Korea made this part of the preparation even more special. They may have left South Korea some time ago, but now—just like BTS—they’ve made their comeback, this time on the very trails they once conquered, or perhaps only dreamed of conquering.
If you are still planning or about to conquer your very first mountain very soon... take note that preparation doesn't stop even after you have prepared yourself physically, mentally, and spiritually, or when you’ve already secured your new pair of the right trekking shoes and sets of proper trekking clothes… You will also need the...
2. RIGHT TREKKING GEARS/EQUIPMENT(Bag, poles, lamps, patellar straps, etc. )
THE BAG
Important: One thing I missed in my preparation—and later realized I should’ve anticipated—was incorporating proper physical training with a fully loaded trekking backpack. Not just a light “practice carry,” but the actual weight of the gear I planned to bring for the schedule. It would have made the climb feel far more realistic and better prepared my body for the demands of the trail.
Let me be straight (even if I’m not. lol). I enjoyed trekking so much that I’m already planning my next itinerary as I write this. But if there’s one thing I genuinely didn’t enjoy during my first trekking experience—particularly in Mount Jirisan—it had to be the need to carry THE BAG.
The trekking bag is one of those must-have essentials because it carries everything else you think you “absolutely need” for the journey. Proper packing techniques—and the rare superpower of packing light (which I clearly do not possess)—can make a huge difference.
Since my itinerary at Mount Jirisan included an overnight stay, I quickly realized that the first bag I ordered online was not going to cut it. This was the bag I originally planned to use for the entire trip… a bag that can be folded into a tiny pouch when not in use...for $7...
I thought the size was big enough to accommodate everything I considered “essential” for the climb—but I was wrong. I needed a bigger bag… or maybe it wasn’t really about the bag at all. It might have been my inability to organize properly and pack light that made it feel impossible to fit everything in the first place.
Side-by-side comparison: the original bag I planned to rely on for the entire trekking itinerary
versus the “upgrade” I ended up buying after convincing myself I needed every possible “essential.”
In hindsight, it was less about the mountain demanding more—
and more about me packing like I was relocating, not hiking.
BASED ON EXPERIENCE: The Bag ( The heavy one. )
This part of the preparation honestly overwhelmed me a bit because I’m not used to carrying heavy loads during sports activities. I mean, yes, I do carry a lot of equipment in triathlon—but the key difference is I don’t carry everything at once from start to finish. There is a transition area where I can leave my stuff and only take what I need.
In short, my back muscles—and my entire being, really—struggled a little just trying to imagine hauling an almost 15kg backpack for the entire trek.
Now I see how much easier things would be if trekking porters were around—and honestly, it made me appreciate even more the work they do to support hikers.
But then again, after completing my Mt. Jirisan adventure, I realized a trek porter isn’t really required. What I actually need is to learn how to pack—and more importantly, what not to pack—because apparently, I brought enough supplies to survive a small expedition.
THE TREKKING POLES
You might see a lot of people on the trails without trekking poles, but that doesn’t automatically mean they’re not essential.
For me, the trekking poles turned out to be one of the most helpful pieces of equipment I brought for the entire activity.
BASED ON EXPERIENCE: With Poles
* When using trekking poles—especially during steep descents—it’s normal to tighten your grip to maintain balance. However, with gloves on and during long-distance hikes, this can cause hand fatigue and reduced circulation over time.
It is best to take short breaks every 45–60 minutes to rest your hands. Open your palms fully, stretch your fingers, and gently shake your hands to improve blood circulation and prevent stiffness.
* Not really sure if this is the ideal way to use trekking poles, but I found it very helpful during the hike. One of my poles got damaged on Day 1—the locking spring no longer worked properly, so I couldn’t adjust its height anymore. As a result, it became shorter than the other pole.
However, since the trail had many large boulders and uneven sections, I adjusted my use of both poles. I planted one pole normally on the ground while using the shorter one to support myself on the rocks along the side. This small adjustment actually helped a lot with balance and stability.
Just make sure to always have the rubber tips with you. They are especially useful on wooden stairs because they prevent the metal tips from getting stuck between the gaps and also reduce slipping.
For instructional videos about trekking poles, you can check the following below or search for more:
If you want a video with extra acting... like mine... here's another one:
Some of the major advantages of using trekking poles:* Better balance and stability, especially on uneven or slippery sections
* Reduced strain on the knees during steep descents... while carrying a heavy backpack.
* Improved rhythm and pacing while climbing
* A general “I look like I know what I’m doing” feel... (even if I didn’t) Trust me on this... there are moments when you laugh at yourself for walking like a robot with your poles.
*When hiking alone—especially in places like the Philippines, where stray animals sometimes outnumber hikers and can get a little too confident—the trekking pole becomes more than just support. Not for harming (unless needed for self-defense), but as a warning tool to keep them at a safe distance.
I used the New Balance Expert trekking pole during my trekking debut. The word “Expert” printed on it somehow added a bit of encouragement. lol.
I also decided to reward myself with a new pair of trekking poles after conquering Jaunbong Peak in Mt. Dobongsan. I originally wanted to get the purple one—because… BTS… purple… obviously—but the tag specifically said “for smaller hands,” and the circumference was noticeably smaller than the pole I was already using.
Good thing I found another store that had a size almost identical to my current pole, and most importantly, one painted in my other favorite color. Trust me, you also get extra energy to do your best when your outfit jives with the rest of your stuff... and it certainly not limited to hiking alone.
Does it really need to be a metallic pole?
Nope. I saw many people—especially seniors—using simple branches as trekking poles… and keeping up with them wasn’t exactly easy... They were super fast.
Modern trekking poles do come with features like built-in shock absorbers to reduce impact and improve comfort and stability. Regardless, what matters most is how well the pole supports you on the trail.
THE PATELLAR STRAPS
The last time I remember wearing a patellar support was more than 10 years ago—back when I was just starting out as a runner. It wasn’t even the simple strap you see today, but more like an elastic tube with a hole in it.
When you’re new, it’s hard to ignore that “I look cool” feeling—especially when, aside from your basic outfit and shoes, you’ve got all these extras attached to you: an armband phone holder, a visor, tapes, straps, and everything else.
But in all honesty, when it comes to trekking—especially while carrying a heavy backpack—patellar support, along with trekking poles, can make a significant difference. They help reduce the impact on your knees, particularly during descent, when the strain is at its highest.
Bought online for $4/pair. Very light and easy to use. It's also less constrictive compared to other styles.
Additional gear: I don’t have them yet, but I already ordered a pair. I saw a lot of hikers in Seoul wearing an extra thick layer over their pants. Apparently, it helps protect against snake bites, among other things. I’d say they’re pretty essential gear.
Then there were the other essentials that made the
heavy bag feel even heavier:
* Water… at least 3L... because not all shelters have supplies.
I bought six 500ml bottles of water because they were easier to fit into the side pockets of my bag. The quantity turned out to be just enough for the entire trek. I didn’t actually get very thirsty since the weather was cold—it was more about timing my intake with the supplements I brought, so in a way, I still consumed my full supply.
However, during warmer seasons, I would recommend bringing extra electrolyte drink ( unless contraindicated ) just to be safe. You’ll be sweating from start to finish, which will naturally increase your thirst, making proper hydration absolutely essential.
* Food… needed before, during and after the trek.
I brought powder supplements that I actually used while trekking—they were convenient and didn’t add much to the overall weight of my bag.
At the bus terminal, I bought a cheeseburger that I reserved for dinner, plus an extra sandwich just in case my “mountain appetite” decided to escalate unexpectedly. I packed four cans of my favorite Hot and Spicy Century Tuna and Rebisco crackers… which ended up just going on the hike for the experience. I mean, who in their right mind chooses to eat something super spicy during an uphill hike?
I also packed some protein bars and tiny chewable chocolate cubes, which turned out to be a real lifesaver during the trek and helped keep my energy levels steady... I went on a trekking adventure for seven straight days—eight if we count all the walking I did around Seoul on arrival. This so-called “perfect-for-the-itinerary” snack cost 2,700 won each, but with a buy-two-get-one-free deal, it basically convinced me I needed it.
By the end of the trip, I’m convinced about 35% of my 10,000-won bills went straight to this snack. I arrived in the Philippines with around 27 extra bars left. lol!
Other Essential Equipment… the “ legit must-bring” items that also added up quickly:
* Lights. Totally non-negotiable. As to how many? That's for you to decide... If you are like me who gets easily scared when alone in the dark... well, you might want to follow the list below... lol!
I brought 3 lamps, 2 flashlights, 1 headlamp ( which I don't like using ), 4 colored blinkers, 1 heavy-duty white blinker, 4 light sticks—and just when I thought I was done over-preparing, I remembered my trekking poles even had built-in LED lights.
I even got to a point where I wasn’t worried about getting lost anymore—since with all the lights I brought, I was probably visible from over 5 km away. Unless the bears or even ETs noticed me first, especially with that intense white blinker.
Here's a quick demo of how bright I will be when walking in the dark...
this was during my training in my hometown.
* First aid kit and other equipment for emergency: whistle, heat blanket, heat packs, etc.
This one was non-negotiable. As a nurse, I always carry a first-aid kit with me whenever I travel. Aside from basic medications, it also includes items that may be needed in case of emergency situations—even delivery. (Yes, I am prepared for everything… just in case the mountain decides to surprise me.)
Fortunately, Korean National Parks are well-equipped with several first aid stations.
At Bukhansan's Baegun Shelter, for example, there's a training dummy and a video guide on how to perform emergency CPR—so basically, the mountain also wants you to learn
Basic Life Support while hiking. Very good concept.
Aside from that, there are also several Rest Areas along the trail where you can find a first aid box, a surface where you can perform CPR and access to AED.
* Extra garments… because weather likes surprises... but 90% of the extra garments I packed turned out to be " non-essentials.
* Portable sleeping mat and blanket…
* Pillow
* 2 extra pairs of socks, hygiene kit and shower essentials.
* ID, Cash, Card, Gadgets, Chargers and Powerbanks
And the stuff that weren’t essential, but somehow made it into the bag anyway because I thought they were essential and might actually need them.
( novice here... with zero capacity to travel light... remember? lol! )
Imagine this—I brought all these extras… and didn’t use any of them anyway: * 2 packs of 500 grams pure cocoa tablea because I thought I’d make a cup or two and generously share hot chocolate with random strangers at the shelter. Hot Choco Party with fellow hikers... for my tiktok. lol! but seriously, I love hot choco and sharing with others.
* A portable kettle, of course, so I could actually boil water for said Hot Choco Party.
* An extension cord with a ridiculous amount of ports and wires for all my gadgets (good thing I decided to leave my laptop behind… lol)
* My OOTD for the next day
* 4 Canned tuna ( 2 for dinner and 2 for breakfast ) and biscuits
* A pair of slippers... a pair of Havaianas... the same used by Jungkook. ( yes. seriously. lol! )
* BT21 Kooky Pajamas, extra short shorts ( for what? I really have no idea...), 2 extra shirts
* Towel
* Shower essentials that ended up becoming useless ( Yes. I did not take a shower after day 1 and before day 2 activities because... you will know later. )
Moving on to the 3rd...
3. THE RIGHT INFORMATION ABOUT THE PLACE YOU PLAN TO EXPLORE
This turned out to be one of the most important lessons I learned—and one that every beginner should take seriously, especially when information is limited, needs translation, or simply because you assume that what’s commonly practiced in one place applies everywhere else.
I did my research. A lot of it, actually. But despite that, I still managed to miss a few crucial details—yes, the kind I should have highlighted in my DIY guide. Part of it came down to time constraints, and part of it was me assuming that “some things were allowed” based on random videos and bits of information I skimmed online.
I only realized later that some parts of my Mt. Jirisan DIY Plan were, in a way, not allowed. Thankfully, it didn’t lead to any awkward or “hello, you can’t be here at this time” moments during my trekking debut. Still, it was a reminder that this is not something to take lightly—especially when you're in unfamiliar territory.
4. THE RIGHT TRAVEL INSURANCE
This is one of those things you need to have… but definitely hope you’ll never use.
Seriously.
If you’re traveling abroad and planning to add some adventures along the way, make sure your insurance actually covers hazardous activities. Because yes—hiking and trekking are considered exactly that: hazardous. (Sounds dramatic, but once you’re on the trail… you’ll understand why.)
Not all insurance plans include this by default, so you may need to upgrade your policy to specifically cover hiking and trekking. It’s one of those decisions that will give you peace of mind—you’ll know that if anything goes wrong, you won’t be dealing with both a mountain and a financial crisis.
One important detail: some policies only cover elevations up to 2,500 meters. So if you’re planning to go higher—literally—it’s best to confirm everything with your provider. Trust me, this is not the kind of fine print you want to ignore.
5. THE RIGHT TO CHANGE YOUR MIND… OR YOUR PLANS
South Korea offers a wide range of trails, from beginner-friendly walks to leg-burning climbs.
If you miss completing any of the first two essentials, Physical Preparation and Gear/Equipment Preparation, it’s best to start with more beginner-friendly trails—and honestly, there’s no shame in that.
The routes I took and the plan I created are, in general, achievable, but they require proper preparation, accurate information, and the right mindset.
A day filled with excitement, awe, frustration, confusion…
and ultimately, appreciation.
April 7, Day 1 – Mt. Jirisan (Revised Plan)Route: Jungsan-ri Intercity Bus Terminal → Jungsan-ri Tourist & Exploration Center → Kalbawi Rock → Rotary Shelter → Byeopgesa Temple → Cheonwangbong Peak (SUNSET*) → Jangteomok Shelter (≈ 9KM)
Originally, I had planned to take the out-and-back trail—the more popular, shorter (but steeper) route to Cheonwangbong Peak—since the whole thing was supposed to be a one-day adventure. The plan sounded beautifully simple: summit, descend, and head straight back to Seoul. Easy, right?
Well… not quite.
The direct bus from Nambu Bus Terminal to Jungsan-ri Intercity Bus Terminal turned out to be elusive on weekdays. And of course, April 7 fell on a Tuesday. Had the bus been available, I would’ve been hiking as early as 4:00 AM.
Instead, I improvised.
April 7 -
* Seoul Express Bus Terminal at 00:10 to Jinju Gaeyang Bus Terminal 42000won ( 3:40hr-trip )
* Taxi Ride Jinju Gaeyang Bus Terminal to Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal 5000won ( 5min-ride )
* Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal to Jungsang-ri Intercity Bus Terminal 7200won ( 1:05hr-trip )
On the bright side, this route turned out to be the most convenient for booking while still outside South Korea, especially since tickets could be secured through apps like Klook without needing a Korean card.
I arrived in Seoul Express Bus Terminal, Gangnam, around 23:00, fully bundled up against the cold like I was preparing to go to Alaska.
Take note that the only available option for the 00:10 bus schedule is the “Excellent” bus. It sits just one tier below the Premium class. So... you pay for comfort.
With only about eight passengers onboard, boarding was quick and effortless—I just scanned the QR code and walked straight to my seat.
Outside was very cold... inside the bus, the heater was working overtime, turning the cabin warm. Warm enough that within minutes, I started taking off layers of clothes—first the thick jacket, then the next one—until I was down to a thin thermal top. I even considered removing my pants in favor of shorts since I had thermal bottoms on.
The bus departed on schedule from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Gangnam) to Jinju Gaeyang Bus Terminal, arriving around 3:45 AM—just in time to start questioning my clothing choices. I was woken by the driver, and after confirming that the building outside matched my DIY guide perfectly, I grabbed my things, thanked him, and confidently stepped out into the... FREEZER. lol!
"Subzero" decided to join the welcome party...
The moment I stepped off the heated bus, my body went into instant reboot. You know that feeling when the temperature of the surroundings suddenly drops and your body starts to chill in response?
Fortunately, the terminal entrance was just a few feet away— I sprinted towards the main door... then to the other side... unfortunately, they were locked. They didn’t open until 4:00 AM.
Aside from their locations, I didn’t bother checking the details about operating hours of bus terminals in South Korea—because I assumed they were open 24/7 like in the Philippines. Lol.
And that’s exactly why generalizations should be avoided.
At that point, I was already starting freezing. It wasn’t my first time in sub-zero conditions—I’ve done several crazy stunts in temperatures way colder... like wearing my DIY Queen Elsa cosplay outfit in Hokkaido winters before—like literally standing in the middle of snow and ice, but this hit different. Probably because my body had just been tricked into thinking it was warm minutes earlier.
A CU convenience store was about 100–150 meters away, but I honestly couldn’t even convince myself to run for it. Instead, I slowed down, focused, set my bag down, and started layering back up one piece at a time. I added a neck warmer, covered my head, and opened a heat pack that felt like it was taking forever to activate. Right when I was finishing up, the lights inside the terminal finally turned on and the doors opened... at 4AM.
Moral of the story: if you’re taking this route during early Spring or Winter, either book a taxi in advance—or dress like you’re already outside before you even step off the bus... and most importantly, do not assume.
From there, I finally booked and hopped into a taxi (a quick five-minute ride ) to Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal. I used the K-Ride App for the taxi ride. You can't use cash as payment method for this app.
Then came the waiting game until 6:10 AM for the first trip to Jungsan-ri Intercity Bus Terminal—the real starting point of the trek.
The final bus ride took about an hour and five minutes, and I arrived at the trailhead just before 7:20 AM.
And right then, I was gently reminded mentally: this was no longer a " one-day debut performance. "
What started as a straightforward out-and-back plan slowly evolved into an overnight trek. First, I considered staying at Rotary Shelter—then later changed it to Jangteomok Shelter. The mission for Day 1 became clear: reach Cheonwangbong Peak in time for sunset*, then push onward to Jangteomok Shelter.
According to the official KNPS site, the out-and-back trail from Jungsan-ri via Rotary Shelter would take around 8 hours, covering approximately 10.8 KM. My revised route shortened slightly to around 9 KM (actual: 9.21 KM). Based on my training—like finishing a 16.19 KM trek in 4 hours and 21 minutes—I genuinely believed I could complete Day 1 in under 8 hours, excluding the time spent with photo stops and the SUNSET* wait.
Wait… I thought you went to Mt. Jirisan alone?
Well, physically, I did. But technically… I went there with my imaginary Jungkook. Lol!
A copy of my original Day 1 (April 7) DIY guide. This was supposed to be the ORIGINAL Day 1 plan.
The idea was simple: start the trek at 9:00 AM, take it slow, then head up to the peak around 4:00 PM, wait for the sunset*, and make my way back down to Rotary Shelter after.
I officially started the trek at 9:08 AM.
Feeling prepared, I clipped one of my iPhones onto a selfie stick and powered off the other to save battery. I was ready to capture my “epic first uphill moment.”
Except… I couldn’t unlock my phone. Because my face was covered (thanks to the freezing temperature), Face ID refused to cooperate. So I confidently entered my passcode.
Wrong.
Tried again.
Wrong.
One more time?
Still wrong.
And just like that—phone was locked.
“No problem,” I thought. “I have another phone.”
Plot twist: same passcode… same result.
Now both phones were locked, and the waiting time to retry kept increasing.
Remember my habit of interpreting random moments as if the universe is sending me a message?
At this point, I had one of those dramatic moments where I thought, maybe this is a sign. Maybe I’m not meant to climb this mountain today.
No photos? No videos? Might as well go back to Seoul. But then…I remembered.
My sister gave me an Android phone last December 2025—and it had been quietly sitting in my gadget bag this entire time, like a backup character waiting for its big moment.
Suddenly, the universe’s message changed to: “The Debut Must Go On...”
At 9:33 AM, I restarted my trek—from what I now considered my second starting point: the Jirisan Burger building.
Armed with my Android phone (now promoted to main gadget for documentation), I headed toward the Jungsan-ri Tourist Information Center. Of course, hike was slow—not because of the trail, but because of the cherry blossoms lining both sides of the road. They were impossible to ignore.
I even managed to do a little bit of live acting— just enough to feed my imagination that I had somehow transformed into a legit trekker. :)
Pro Tip: In case you're wondering what I was trying to do there—I was actually trying to strike a few poses so I could easily screen-capture the best moments from the video and use them as photos later. Video and photo in one acting. lol!
By 10:00 AM, I reached the Jungsan-ri Tourist & Exploration Center. I asked the staff if I could connect to their Wi-Fi in a desperate attempt to rescue my locked iPhones. Still… both were uncooperative.
Because both devices were linked—same email, same passcode, same everything—I couldn’t access verification codes sent via email or text. My only option? Reset one of them.
And just like that, my initial “trekking debut documentation” disappeared into the digital void. Photos, videos… even clips from the BTS Arirang Madang event—gone. Hence, no photos from the start of the trip up to Junsang-ri Intercity Bus Terminal.
At that point, I made a decision: to stop dwelling on it. The Android phone was doing just fine, and I refused to let a tech meltdown ruin the entire experience.
At 10:12 AM, I moved on.
By 10:18 AM, I reached the next stop...
But it took me another 10–15 minutes before I could continue trekking… priorities first—I had to document everything properly. 🙂
I continued for another 2 KM, soaking in the views
(and pretending the more than 12kg bag was not bothering me)
At 11:12 AM, I arrived at Kalbawi Rock after covering around 1.4 KM. By 11:20 AM, I was at the Kalbawi Intersection, enjoying a well-earned snack.
This was one of those classic meeting points during the trek where hikers who had passed each other earlier reunited—some chatting, others giving that silent “we’re in this together” stare, or some ( like me ) going full Korean-style encouragement mode with a loud “Fighting!"
After grabbing some snacks at Kalbawi Intersection—and of course taking way too many selfies before finally choosing this selfie to represent the spot—
From the intersection, the trail splits:
Left → Jangteomok Shelter
Right → Rotary Shelter
I got back on the trail.…and took more selfies along the way.
Still looking for a quote for this one…
One very distinct feature of mountains in South Korea? Stairs. Lots of them.
Here’s a sample of the many rest areas scattered all over the forest—equipped with a first aid kit, a flat surface for CPR, and even an AED. And if there’s no emergency…
well, it’s also a perfectly valid selfie spot. Lol.
Then came more stairs… this time with a different design... requiring the exact same effort.
This one—I honestly can’t remember if I took the photo after going up or before heading down. Either way… more stairs.
At some point, I was almost overwhelmed by the realization that my camera roll had become a “types of stairs” album… so naturally, I decided to do a bit of acting again... lol!
And yes, another set.
SAFETY FIRST!
By the way, you really need to stay vigilant on wooden stairs. They’re held together with massive bolts or nails, and some have metal tips that stick out—just waiting to catch the tip of your shoe and trip you.
SAFETY FIRST!
I also noticed that some of the bolts ( selected steps ) needed tightening—or that the holes they’re set in had widened enough to let them move back and forth when stepped on.
This was taken during my descent from Cheonwangbong Peak toward Jeontomok Shelter. The bolt on the first step was loose, causing that section to shift when I stepped on it. It’s not something that would easily make you trip on its own, but combined with other factors, it could pose a potential hazard.
And then came this type of trail—which, honestly, I found much easier compared to stairs.w
The thing with stairs is that everything is the same: the height, the effort it takes to lift your legs step after step, and worst of all… you can clearly see just how many steps are still waiting for you. No surprises—just a long, humbling countdown.
I honestly couldn’t thank our local government enough for building those concrete stairs at Linabo Peak—they contributed a lot to my “instant” training.
Quick acting time again.
(Scene: I’m starting to get frustrated with the endless trail, dramatically asking Jungkook how much longer this kind of trail is going to go on.) LOL!
Then came this huge rock with something written on it… was it vandalism or an official note?
And then there was this tarpaulin—you’ll see it countless times along the trail,
making sure you will remember the caution.
halabeoji and halmeoni passed by me again...
They were my unofficial trailmates on the way to Cheonwangbong Peak. And honestly? Halmeoni was so fast, I completely lost track of them right after the next set of stairs.
Miss my acting? Here's another one... lol!
(Script: started to wonder—slightly concerned—if we’ve been enchanted, because somehow we keep ending up on the same stairs over and over again… ) obviously, they didn’t even bother joining the scene and just went straight ahead. lol!
You’ll know you’re getting close to Rotary Shelter once you reach this area.
So at least now, you will know exactly when it’s the right time to start asking,
“Am I there yet?”
Finally reached Rotary Shelter at 2:05 PM. Familiar faces from earlier in the day were there—some resting, some eating, others just enjoying the moment and a few went on ahead to the next part of the trail
Meanwhile, I kept myself busy with other things. I didn’t think much of the fact that the people who had arrived ahead of me were already making their way to the peak. After all, I had a timeline to follow—my DIY Guide clearly said: head to the peak around 4:00 PM.
Sticking to the plan, I approached the staff with a very specific concern. My trekking pole had a built-in light, and I needed a tiny screwdriver to change the batteries so it can shine brighter... together with my other eight lights attached to my body and my outfit. lol!
They didn’t have one. Plus, I didn’t want to bother them since they were busy setting up devices.
So I sat down at an empty table and switched my attention to my other iphone—once again—tried to unlock it. After a few minutes of struggle, I finally decided to leave it alone. Unlike the first phone, this one held all my essential apps, and resetting it just wasn’t worth the risk.
At 3:05 PM, I made a quick stop at Byeopgyesa Temple, known as the highest temple in South Korea. I spent around less than 10 minutes exploring the area.
From the temple gate, shown below, Cheonwangbong Peak was about 2 KM away.
The Three-Storied Stone Pagoda
On my way back to the gate, I ran into a lady who worked at the temple. I asked her if there was a shortcut from within the temple grounds leading up to the peak—or if I had to go back to the main gate (which, to be fair, wasn’t that far).
She told me to return to the gate and turn right.
Simple enough.
So I started walking… Then she suddenly called me back.
What followed was a mix of words and gestures that went something like:
“No… climb… 3 PM… sleep at Rotary…”
I didn’t fully understand what she meant, but I somehow got the message: it might already be too late to continue to the peak, and I should probably stay at Rotary Shelter instead.
Now here’s the thing—I was completely aware of two important rules:
1. No one is allowed to enter the park and start hiking between 2–3 PM, and
2. Walk-ins at shelters are not allowed.
Since I was already inside the park… started before 2PM... technically…
I assumed that I should still be able to continue, right?
To make sure I wasn’t about to break a rule (or worse, get stuck halfway up a mountain with no place to sleep), I decided to head back to Rotary Shelter, which thankfully wasn’t too far.
When I got to the shelter, I explained the situation to the rangers—basically relaying the temple lady’s message and my plan to continue to the peak for sunset* before heading to Jangteomok Shelter.
It's important to remember that during this moment, I was still completely unaware that some of the highlight moments in my plan were actually against the rules.
Their English was limited—and honestly, I couldn’t and shouldn’t blame them for it. I still didn’t have internet access on my Android phone at that point, so using a translator wasn’t even an option. But they genuinely tried to help and answer my questions.
By then, it was around 3:20 PM.
They checked their system, confirmed my reservation at Jangteomok Shelter, and—with a combination of nods and hand gestures—told me that I could continue to the peak and proceed to the shelter afterward.
Just to be absolutely sure, I asked again if I can continue the trek to the peak then to the shelter. They confirmed. That was all I needed to hear.
At around 3:25PM, off I went… again... 35 minutes ahead of my 4PM plan.
Distance to hike... 2KM... But this was Cheonwangbong—the highest peak in Jirisan—and based on everything I had read, it was not something to be underestimated. So I adjusted my expectations and gave myself 2 hours to reach the summit, just in time for the 6:30-6:50 PM sunset.
Of course, I was still taking photos and videos along the way— “ pictures/videos or it didn’t happen.”
There weren’t many landmarks between the temple and the peak—but here were a few that I managed to capture along the way.
This one, called the “Arc de Triomphe”—a rock formation that, for a brief moment, made me feel like I was trekking somewhere in Europe instead of South Korea.
The final stretch leading to the summit—the part where the trail seemed to whisper,
“You are almost there... remember the draft of your blog... it's completed already...”
Then I did a bit of scrambling after spotting a sign that said something like, “Up here is the famous selfie/photo spot…”—I can’t remember the exact wording, but it was convincing enough to make me climb a little higher. ( The sign board just below the arrow. )
At 4:41, the stone marker was already within my reach...
At 4:43... Finally... conquered the highest peak in mainland Seoul.
And surprisingly… it was still very bright... after all, sunset was expected to start late.
But as you can see, my lamps were already attached to my bag... 3 of them...
waiting to shine after the sunset.
yes... It was the imaginary Jungkook who took the photo. lol!
All in all, it took me around 6 hours to reach the summit based on the following:
Jirisan Burger to Tourist Center = 27 minutes
Tourist Center to Rotary Shelter = Around 4 hours
Rotary Shelter to Cheonwangbong Peak = Around 1:20 hours
- Selfie, documentation, " acting ", snack and rest periods INCLUDED.
I remember thinking to myself:
“Okay… I still have 2 hours within my 8-hour target "
The shelter was only 1.7 KM away, and from the information I gathered, it's mostly downhill.
In my head, that translated to: “An hour should have been more than enough. My average descent time at my training ground, Linabo Peak—also around 1.7 km—was about 35 to 37 minutes, sometimes even faster when I picked up the pace and ran sections of the trail."
While I was figuring out what to do next—still about 1 hour and 45 minutes away from sunset—my imaginary Jungkook suddenly decided to appear and ask the most random questions.
From “Was it worth the climb?”
To which I replied, “I have never felt so empowered… especially with this backpack aggressively reminding me of the screws in my clavicle.” (Yes, I have about 8–10 screws on my left clavicle, and apparently, they were part of the hike too.)
Then came, “What if your timing formula isn’t actually accurate?”
…which, my spontaneous brain was not prepared to answer... spontaneously.
So instead of responding, I... I mean, we ( me and imaginary Jungkook ) just sat down.
And then it hit me.
He was making sense. I had been too focused on tracking the actual trekking time—BASED ONLY on factors like selfies, videos, a bit of acting, snack breaks, and rest periods.
The problem was, I completely overlooked the other parts of the journey that demanded longer pauses.
There was the waiting time at the terminal from 7:30 AM to the 9:00 AM START TIME, then the nearly 2-hour pause while waiting for the planned 4:00 PM start from Rotary Shelter to Cheonwangbong Peak. On top of that were the smaller delays—the time spent fixing my phone at Jirisan Burger, and the quick stop at Rotary Shelter to ask if I could still continue the trek after 3 PM.
That was 3 hours and 30 minutes I never considered.
BUT still, my:
Confidence Level and Optimism: still 10/10
Reality Check: Arriving in...
While taking photos of the marker,
I suddenly noticed something… off.
If you noticed the same thing in my “wonderfully captured” photo… then you’re a critical thinker.
Here's another angle...
There was no one there.
Not a single person.
I had expected a crowd—at least a handful of hikers waiting for the sunset.
I mean… hello, sunset / " kilum-kilum. "
Aside from being romantic, watching it from this spot should have been magical.
But instead, I found myself completely alone at the highest peak. ( Yes... alone because the imaginary Jungkook had to go to his hyungs. lol! )
Just me… and the crows. lol!
And for a moment, that realization hit differently. Sunset was still about an hour away. The temperature had started to drop, but it was still tolerable… manageable.
Then my instinct quietly whispered... ( or was it just my fear of being alone in the dark? lol! )
“Don’t wait for the sunset… and don’t expect other hikers to show up.”
...if no one came, then I would have to make my way to Jangteomok Shelter alone—for about 1.7 KM, in fading light, on unfamiliar terrain.
That was enough for me.
VERY IMPORTANT TO KNOW...
Before we jump into my way to Jangteomok Shelter, let’s pause for the question that should be on your mind right now:
Is sunset viewing even allowed at Cheonwangbong Peak?
The direct answer is: NO!
Unfortunately, I only realized that after I had already completed my Day 1 itinerary. Ironically, it wasn’t even one of the reasons behind the delays I ran into that day.
I mean, who would’ve thought that something as simple and peaceful as watching the sunset—at one of the most popular spots in South Korea—could actually be against the rules, right?
But it was the “who would’ve thought” mindset that made everything misguided from the start.
I assumed it was common practice...
Partly because it was something I had often seen—and done—back home. Coming from a place in the Philippines blessed with some of the most beautiful sunset views, watching the sun go down had always felt like a normal part of the day.
Taking photos and videos of the sunset is one of the simple rituals
locals enjoy before calling it a day
But also partly because I had come across photos and videos of people doing the same on other peaks in South Korea, like Bukhansan National Park, with some even suggesting that a sunset-to-night hike at Inwangsan felt even more magical.
So in my mind, while I was still putting the itinerary together, it felt like a perfect plan—since I would already be spending the night on Jirisan National Park, why not make it complete? Sunset on Day 1, sunrise on Day.
Here are a few sunset photos I took on different occasions—
From the most popular viewing area, rightfully called the Sunset Boulevard
To the place where I usually spend my afternoon runs
To Linabo Peak, where I prepared for my Mt. Jirisan debut
And even directly from our garden...
We even have a sunset festival we call “Kilum-Kilum.”
Enjoying and appreciating the beauty of the sunset feels like something already imprinted in us—almost second nature.
ok... so much for rationalization… I featured my sunset photo collections to explain my misguided itinerary.
There's no valid excuse—there were good reasons behind the " no sunset viewing " policy. What feels routine in my hometown, isn’t always as simple in places where safety takes priority. My hometown is not South Korea. Different places. Different practices.
A significant part of my DIY-itinerary was flawed from the start, as it was based on my generalizations, skimmed information, and my own interpretation of what I thought was allowed.
So there I was—out on the trail, excited, optimistic, and fully committed to implement my DIY plan… with absolutely no clue that parts of it weren’t even allowed in the first place. And yep, I had no one to blame but myself—I planned parts of it based on pure assumption… which, as it turns out, is not exactly a reliable strategy in the mountains.
So, did I actually watch the sunset at the peak?
Let’s just say… keep reading. :)
By the laws of physics... ( I don’t know the exact name of the law, but I’m confident it belongs under physics. lol! ) the descent toward Jeontamok Shelter should have been faster… since it's mostly downhill. But the heavy backpack strongly disagreed. I had to maintain both pace and posture, or things could’ve gone downhill very literally.
So, I started my descent, maintained my pace and posture and decided to watch the sunset somewhere closer to the shelter.
By 6:12 PM, I passed by the narrow pathway with the steel ladder.
This area is always featured in videos about this trail—especially that narrow section where only one person can pass at a time.
I didn’t take photos or videos while descending because some parts were covered in ice, so I focused on keeping my grip steady and my steps precise.
A few feet from this point... I was 1.2KM away from Jangteomok Shelter.
It was still bright all around at 6:18PM.
I continued descending, steadily making my way down different types of stairs...
A short section after this area was particularly challenging, as some parts were still covered in ice. Without crampons, I had to get creative just to avoid slipping.
This stretch turned out to be the most exhausting—about 80% of the narrow pathway was icy and extremely slippery. I couldn’t rely on stepping over the rocks along the sides either, since many of them were partially covered in ice as well.
FYI: The greyish-white area in the middle wasn’t a rock or part of a boulder—it was actually solid ice.
On the right side was a cliff—though not the kind that sends you plummeting thousands of feet straight to the ground, it was still risky enough to make you very aware of every step.
One option to get through the path quickly was to hop across the rocks scattered between the solid ice. But my bag was heavy, and I wasn’t exactly confident in my ability to keep my balance while carrying it on my back. On top of that, some of the rocks looked almost identical to the ice. lol!
I knew I had to be creative... I knew I had to be creative… this time, it called for some serious acting—not like the previous scenes I did a while ago... and apparently, real acting doesn’t need to be documented in real time. lol
To better picture how I pulled off this particular “scene,” you’ll need to look at the photo above again first and understand exactly where I was trying to reach. At the bottom of the image, you can see what looks like an inverted heart-shaped rock. Beside it was another larger rock—that heart-shaped rock was the section I needed to get to in order to continue. I was probably less than 20 meters away, but it turned out to be the most challenging part of the entire trail... more challenging than the final 300m climb from Rotary Shelter trail to Cheonwangbong Peak.
The Performance...
While waiting for my brain to decide which position would best get me moving forward—lying on my back or my stomach—I tossed my backpack ahead so I could act more freely.
After confirming that my bag had landed safely on a rock, I committed to my final decision—lying on my back. I then delivered a full “Lara Croft” performance… in my imagination, not in execution. I awkwardly tried my best to push myself up while grabbing onto anything I could just to avoid sliding back down.
After what felt like an eternity, I finally reached the next part of the trail.
When I finally reached a dry section, I seriously reconsidered my plan of returning to the peak for sunrise. It was just too slippery to take lightly.
I picked up my bag and prepared to continue… when something from the side pocket slipped out and slid straight into the icy part of the trail.
It was my camera tripod and its remote... separated from each other. One went to the right and the other to the left.
Since I had no intention of going back to that narrow, slippery section, so I just told my tripod to stay put… and that I’d come back for it the next day... or maybe someday. lol!
The sky started to shift... until it was finally sunset.
From where I stood, I could already see parts of Jangteomok Shelter in the distance.
Good News: If you are a foreigner or someone outside South Korea, you can reserve at any shelter anytime… no online payment needed. Just book and show up on your schedule and pay at the window. Bring cash and card for sure.
Take note that the website for foreigners requires a PC.
You cannot book more than 1 shelter on the same date.
You need to cancel your booking if your trip or trek plans will change. Frequent “ No Show “ will result to banning for months or even forever. Cancelling your booking ON THE DAY of your schedule = " No Show. " Cancel at least 24-48 hours before the schedule.
You can book as a group. The maximum number per group in one booking will depend on which shelter will you be staying. If one member of the group will cancel, the group must inform the shelter before the actual schedule. If one member of the group cancels, the rest of the group will also be cancelled. You need to rebook again... However, your chances of getting a new reservation will depend on the current available beds.
Ok... back to the show...
When I finally reached the shelter, I didn’t went in right away.
Instead, I stayed outside for a short time, just taking everything in—the surroundings, the silence, the cold slowly settling in. But as the temperature continued to drop, I finally went inside the shelter.
It was time to check in.
A man opened the window. I told him I had a reservation—but of course, I couldn’t access my phone to show the screenshot.
Screenshot of my original reservation... before I decided to change it to Jeontomok Shelter.
So I showed him my passport instead.
After checking the system, he found my reservation. He then asked how I wanted to pay, gave me instructions, and pointed me toward the shoe locker and assigned room.
I officially checked in at 7:15 PM after paying 20,000won. Some shelters only accept cash. Some only accept cards. Some both ways. Hence, it's always a smart idea to bring cash and your card at the same time.
At that moment, it was just the ranger and me. Naturally, I started wondering... again...—where were the other hikers I had seen earlier... I was very excited for the hot choco party.
Maybe they were outside? having dinner? enjoying a quiet moment? I decided to take a shower first...
I headed to my assigned room... opened the door…and there they were.
20 plus men... all asleep... probably before 7PM.
Lights out. No movements. Not even a whisper. They were all sleeping like babies.
My plan of hosting a hot choco party?
Immediately cancelled. Lol.
WHEN BASIC AMENITIES WEREN'T SO BASIC (and there were valid reasons why... )
I quietly backed out, grabbed my towel, sleepwear, and toiletries, fully committed to ending the day with a well-deserved warm shower...
There was just one small problem… I couldn’t find the shower room.
I went back to the reception area, where a couple had just arrived and were also looking for the ranger... to check in or maybe buy something... or inquire... not sure... but both came in through the main door.
When I finally asked where the shower was, he casually replied: “There is no shower here.”
Determined to at least feel a sense of being fresh after completing the DAY 1 itinerary, I bought a 3-liter bottle of water, planned to do a “DIY quick-wash.”
Another problem... There was no designated place inside the shelter to do any kind of washing... except for the utensils... in the kitchen... located outside the building... and closes around 8PM.
I started lowering my expectations… and rescheduled taking a shower the next day... in Seoul.
Next mission: comfort room.
I told myself, “Okay… there’s no way they don’t have a toilet.” It was already around 9:30PM.
Right on cue, a fellow trekker ( honestly, should I use hiker or trekker? ) —probably around 25 years old —went into the charging area to check his phone. I asked him where the comfort room was...
Without hesitation, he offered to accompany me. “Gamsahamnida,” I replied. That’s basically my safest Korean word in high-pressure situations.
I only know four Korean words—the one I used, plus " opa ", “annyeong” and “saranghae.” And I quickly realized that using all four in the same conversation would have been… wildly inappropriate and emotionally confusing for everyone involved.
Opa—I mean the kind guy—informed me that the comfort room was outside.
I said to myself, if the comfort room's outside, then there must be a sink and faucet that I could use for at least a quick sponge bath. With that hopeful thought, I hurried back into the room to grab my towel and shower essentials… again.
We stepped out into the night. And about 10 steps away from the main door…
“Subzero” showed up uninvited again, sending a blast of wind that was definitely not in the “a bit chilly” category. Think more “I'm not cut for this” kind of cold.
It was like a repeat scene when arrived at Jinju Gaeyang Bus Terminal earlier that day... but five times colder.
I immediately turned around and ran back inside the shelter. It was obvious at this moment that "Subzero" was officially on its second strike for ruining the mood.
The kind guy probably thought I forgot something and was coming back out— or that I was weird... so he waited for a bit… then eventually gave up and went back inside when I didn’t return.
Thankfully, the shelter had heated floors. And at that moment, that was all I needed.
I skipped the whole no sleeping pad situation and went straight for the floor... my jacket and heat tech garments as well—just to fully absorb the warmth.
The heated floor was the best part of it all.
Later on, when the guy came back to the room (yes, we ended up being roommates), I gave him the pack of cacao tablea as a small thank-you for being kind enough to escort me to the comfort room. lol!
I even wanted to give him my portable kettle… but I could tell it wouldn’t fit in his bag.
But hey—on the bright side, my backpack was now 500 grams lighter.
And just like that, Day 1 ended—not with a hot shower or a sunset view at the peak… but with a cold reality check, a warm floor, and a slightly lighter bag.
But... I did not go to sleep right away...
With my internet finally back, the first thing I did was create a temporary Facebook account—just so I could message my family and let them know I had completed Day 1 safely.
While waiting for my family to accept my message and friend request... which took forever as almost all of them had their accounts on private mode...
I did what any tired but still curious newbie trekker would do—I went down an information rabbit hole... particularly about why no one was into watching the sunset at the highest peak of Mt. Jirisan and why are there no basic amenities inside the shelter.
And that’s when things became… very clear.
On sunset viewing:
Apparently, sunset viewing isn’t allowed. Hikers are not permitted to continue once it gets dark—especially during this time of year, when sunset happens later.
Which, in hindsight, made perfect sense. But at the time? When I made my DIY guide... I hadn’t even considered it—mainly because sunrise hikes usually start between 3:00–4:00 AM, which is also dark… and definitely colder. So in my head, it somehow balanced out. In reality, It did not.
On Shelter Check-in and everything about a " mountain shelter ":
On top of that, I also learned that shelters typically allow check-in only between 3:00 PM and 6:00 PM, regardless of the season.
Anything beyond that can be considered as a " No Show " or depending on the circumstances, can only be possible if the rangers were informed ahead of time that a hiker might arrive late.
But I checked in at 7:15 PM... right? It was done...
Smoothly.
No issues.
No interrogation.
No dramatic “you’re late” moment.
That’s when it hit me. There was a good chance the rangers from Rotary Shelter had informed the staff at Jangteomok that I started late—around 3:55 PM—and that I might arrive past the usual check-in window.
If that was the case, then they had quietly helped me without making a big deal out of it.
Most of all, I finally understood why sunset viewing is prohibited...
Sunset viewing is not allowed because rangers strictly regulate hiking hours to ensure everyone descends safely before dark. Staying out too late increases risks like poor visibility, sudden weather changes, and slower emergency response if anything happens.
A mountain shelter is NOT a hostel, inn.
motel or anything in between.
Shelters are not designed for comfort because that simply isn’t their priority—safety is. These shelters function as controlled checkpoints rather than somewhere you can rent and relax.
Rangers conduct headcounts, and everyone is expected to be accounted for before the end of the day. If someone is missing, it can trigger search procedures until the person is located.
So how did I miss all that information when there was a dedicated website for foreigners?
Good question.
Before even choosing a shelter, I already had the wrong idea—I thought “shelters” were basically like hotels, hostels, or Airbnb. I even told myself,
“Oh, cute… they just call them ‘shelters’ to match the whole forest and mountain theme.”
When I chose Jangteomok Shelter, I went straight to its dedicated " ABOUT " area on the website...
checked the location, prices, and reservation details—and stopped there. My research was limited to what I thought I needed: booking info, rates, and basic policies.
( SS from KNPS for foreigners website. )
What I didn’t bother to explore was the Facility Use section—which, as it turns out, contains the most important details about how shelters actually work... Such as...
Moral of the story?
Click more. Read more. Don’t assume.
I felt a bit embarrassed for not knowing these important rules—especially since they were pretty crucial.
But at the same time, I felt genuinely relieved—and grateful.
Because despite my lack of awareness, the rangers still allowed me to continue, and even made sure I could check in safely at the end of the day.
Looking back, it was one of those moments where you realize:
Preparation matters…But consideration from strangers matters just as much.
Day 1 was a day of excitement from chasing a long-planned goal, awe from the beauty and scale of the mountain, frustration from gadgets that weren’t cooperating when I needed them most, and confusion from not being fully aware of certain rules ( because of assuming and skimming information ) while planning the trip. Yet in the end, all of it came together into a quiet appreciation—for the experience, the lessons, and the resilience it demanded.
And so... I finally went to sleep around 10PM... even forgot to set the 3:45AM alarm for...
Part 2: DAY 2 Itinerary: SUNRISE VIEWING.
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