From Arirang Goyang Dreams to Mountain Peaks.
PART 2: SUNRISE VIEW ON MT. JIRISAN
A beginner’s complete guide to ascending and descending Cheonwangbong Peak via
Jangteomok Shelter or Rotary Shelter.
Real first-trekking experiences, important lessons, and stories
shared by a beginner for beginners.
By: Edsel E. Jeon
Route: Jangteomok Shelter – Cheonwangbong Peak – Jangteomok Shelter – Yuam Falls – Kalbawi Intersection – Junsang-ri Tourist and Exploration Center – Junsang-ri Intercity Bus Terminal (Total Distance: 10.5–11KM)
This was my Day 2 DIY itinerary.

As you can see, the plan—ambitious as it already was—was to start at 4AM… with emphasis on “or earlier.”
If you know me personally, you also know that what’s written on paper and what actually happens are… two very different realities. There’s a high chance that such plans exist more on paper than execution.
Day 2 came… and I forgot to set my alarm. Fortunately, I woke up around 3:20AM anyway, as all my roommates were already wide awake and most were fully dressed and ready to go.
The guy I met earlier—the one I gave a pack of cocoa to—noticed I was up and even apologized if he had caused any noise. I told him...
In full aegyo mode... @3:20 AM, I replied, “Oppaaaa~ it’s totally fine!” lol!
But seriously, I told him it was okay—I forgot to turn on my alarm anyway, so at least…
While he was preparing, I had the chance to warn him about the icy and slippery sections, which he then relayed to his dad.
He asked if I had reached the peak the day before, and I said yes—but that I was going back again today for the sunrise… and also to retrieve the tripod I dropped somewhere around 800 meters back.
I stood up, stretched, and when I opened the room door, the cold wind hit me like it had been waiting outside all night just to check if I was going to complain. And honestly… it succeeded. My inner Queen Elsa was " bothered by the cold. " There's no way I'm going to the peak and wait for the sunrise at -1C.
I told the guy to go ahead and that I would just follow later for the sunrise—or maybe find another spot along the way.
That whole “I’ll follow later” plan quickly turned into a 5:59 AM start—right around the moment I realized that -1°C had absolutely no intention of adjusting to my definition of “comfortable” for a sunrise hike.
This photo was taken around 5:34 AM...

...when the world down there was still half-asleep, while up here, it was just me… and while trying to decide whether to push on to the peak and join the rest of the trekkers for the sunrise—the obvious highlight of my Day 2 itinerary—or pull a repeat of yesterday and just catch the sunrise somewhere else along the way.
Ok... with the moon still hanging around like it wanted to stay for another hour... the sky was still dark... the peak "just" 1.7KM away... and confidently knowing the trail wasn’t too bad compared to the other side—except for that icy section... and with an IMAGINARY JUNGKOOK always ready to walk beside me... my spontaneous mind finally decided: TO THE PEAK SHALL WE GO.
I turned left toward Cheonwongbong Peak at 5:54AM, until this view said...
“change your plan, dear.”
The structure in the photo is the kitchen and dining area at Jangteomok Shelter. "Haring Araw " / the sun was clearly already gearing up to greet the people who went to the peak in the wee hours of the morning.
Take note, the original plan was 4AM summit, quick sunrise viewing, then descent, because I needed to be back at the terminal by 1PM to catch my bus to Jinju, where I already had a reserved 4:30PM ticket to Seoul.
With about two hours already gone, I briefly decided: fine, I’ll just go straight to the bus terminal instead.
I packed my things… went out of the shelter... then, like how I spontaneously decided to become a trekker in the first place, I changed my mind again.
Okay. No peak today—but I will climb about 800 meters… why?
To retrieve a very important equipment that I will need for the rest of my trip... the tripod and its remote that I dropped the day before.
I returned inside the shelter, dropped my heavy bag, and brought only the essentials: trekking poles, phones, two flashlights (even if it was already bright), and a bottle of water.
I started my ascent—not to the peak—but toward the icy section where my tripod was patiently waiting.
This was taken around 6:17 AM.
And just as I made my way up, one of the people I had messaged the night before (using my temporary Facebook account) finally replied. I sat down for the next 20 minutes, giving instructions while trying to speak properly because the cold breeze kept cutting in.
At 6:41AM, though far from the peak, the magnificent sunrise at Mt. Jirisan made sure my adventure will not be ignored. It showed up in a spot that felt like it was reserved only for me… and the imaginary Jungkook walking quietly beside me.
LIKE IF YOU SEE IT...
I checked my Garmin and realized I was already more than 800 meters away from the shelter. Even when I hit the 1KM mark, I was still nowhere near the icy section I was aiming for.
I went on for a few more meters until I finally reached the area—about 1.2KM from the starting point. Not 800m. The tripod? The remote?
At least the remote, despite being frozen, was still working.
Now that I got my tripod…the remote of the tripod, and it was already 7:09 AM, I figured it was time to head back to the bus terminal.
I thought, well, the peak was only 500 meters away… might as well go all the way to the peak.
And also—maybe the guy I met earlier picked it up and was waiting for me at the peak. After all, I did tell him about the tripod before he left around 3:50 AM. Which, honestly, made sense at the time.
So off to the peak I went… this time alone, since the imaginary Jungkook decided to head back first—since he had to attend the general rehearsal for the first day of the concert.
On my way up the wooden stairs leading to the narrow section with metal steps, I had a “mysterious encounter” with someone I honestly didn’t even notice was already there.
And no, not the same person from the earlier “like if you see it” photo caption. This was someone new—quietly standing there, probably questioning whether climbing up to Cheonwangbong Peak at this hour was truly a brilliant idea.
I finally reached the narrow area and stopped to take a photo of the view…
and there he was again.
Back then, I started wondering if he was a friendly
gumiho—sent, perhaps, by my imaginary Jungkook to keep me company in his absence. lol. I asked if he wanted a photo and told him he could go ahead, since I’d be busy doing my usual mountain activity: documenting.
Off he went to the peak.
I saw him again just a few meters ahead on the rocky path leading to the stone marker at Cheonwangbong Peak. I was 100% sure I watched him head toward the monument. I was maybe 2–3 minutes behind him—close enough that we should’ve reached the peak together.
Now, logically speaking, it’s entirely possible he simply didn’t stay long at the peak—maybe he had somewhere else to be, took a quick look, and headed straight back down via the Rotary Shelter trail. Right?
At 7:37AM, when I finally made it to the top… just like the other day, I was alone again.
Sunrise at Cheonwangbong Peak.jpg)
You might ask why I didn’t just invite “imaginary Jungkook” at the peak. Well, I did try… I called... but his assistant picked up instead and said rehearsals had already started.
Ok... back to reality...
The climb to the peak from Jeongteomok Shelter side was surprisingly easier and faster. I even stopped occasionally to make video calls, and take photos and videos like I wasn’t on a time-sensitive mission to catch my bus schedule.
At around 7:50AM, I knew there was only one priority: heading back to Junsang-ri Intercity Bus Terminal. I wasn’t going to let spontaneity derail the plan again.
I eventually made my back to the shelter, stopped by the reception, and asked if anyone had turned in a tripod. The ranger shook his head.
I then went outside, prepared my breakfast, casually ate while enjoying the view with the crows—and just like that, I had no idea my spontaneous mind had decided to tweak the plan again. Not minding that it was already 9AM and I was still moving like the 1PM bus would wait for me personally.
The crows? Real. The sound? Can you tell?
By 9:45AM, I finally started descending toward the starting point.
There aren’t many landmarks between the shelter and the center. Yuam Falls, roughly 2KM away from the shelter is probably the only major area most people mention.
Less than 500 meters from the shelter, my Garmin decided it had done enough for the day—battery gone. I was now officially navigating on faith and memory... and of course, my DIY guide map. And no—the sound of flowing water you were hearing wasn’t Yuam Falls. You started hearing it less than five minutes from the shelter gate.
SAFETY FIRST!
The descent from Jeongtomok Shelter (and yes, by now you’ve probably seen it spelled in several different ways—that was just me accidentally remixing syllables, lol) consisted of a mix of trail types. Part of it involved maneuvering over big rocks.
One thing I learned during my debut: not all big, wide, “this looks stable enough to trust with my life” rocks were actually stable. Some of them weren’t secured tightly to the ground at all, and the moment I stepped on them, they tilted like they had other plans.
If you were in a hurry or didn’t have extra support ( strong core, legs and trekking poles ), that kind of surprise could easily throw you off balance.
During winter to early spring, some rocks may look dry and harmless—but in reality, they can be partially covered in ice. Stepping on them without crampons will likely lead to only one outcome, and it won’t be graceful.
So yeah—stay alert and be very intentional about where you place your feet.
Here are two videos I took so you can better see what I mean.
The beeping sound was my Garmin, basically telling me it wanted to take a day off.
" Don't be fooled by the rocks that I got... "
And one more thing—ropes and wooden pillars aren’t just found in Mt. Jirisan; they’re common in other national parks across South Korea as well. The ropes were actually my favorite on steep ascents.
That said, you might want to pause and think about what some of them are really there for.
To better understand... click the video below.
Based on my DIY map, Yuam Falls should have been nearby… but I’m not entirely sure I ever actually saw a sign for it. I took several photos of what I think might have been Yuam Falls. Hopefully, at least one of them was the real one.
Was it this one?
or this one?
or the one next to the bridge where I took this photo?
Or was it next to this area… which I think were the longest stairs on the route up to the peak?
Or maybe my favorite of them all—it looked shallow at first glance, but in reality, it was deep enough for adults to swim in. Of course, I didn’t go swimming, because aside from the freezing temperature… it wasn’t allowed.
Regardless of where the actual Yuam Falls was during my trek, the stream was all interconnected—so in a way, it felt like everything was part of the same waterfall system anyway. Reasons. lol!
I continued walking until I noticed the ajumma I had met earlier on her way to Jeongteomok Shelter had already made her way back to Kalbawi Intersection via the Rotary Shelter trail. In short, she had completed the loop trail in a single day. She was fast.
I had expected the descent to be quicker since it was downhill—but my heavy backpack had other plans. It slowed everything down. I had to carefully manage my balance, keep my poles steady, and avoid over-leaning because the bag felt like it was actively trying to push me forward.
At one point, I seriously considered leaving it behind. But then I remembered the classic “don’t leave anything behind but memories” line… so I kept it. I would have absolutely thrown it down the trail otherwise—essentials excluded, of course.
At that point, I was already going to miss the 1:10PM and 2:10PM buses from Junsang-ri Intercity Bus Terminal to Jinju. My last option was the 3:20PM bus, which would give me just about 5 minutes to transfer to my 4:30PM bus to Seoul.
At around 2PM, I was still a kilometer away from the center—and another 1.5KM from the terminal.
But somehow, I made it just in time.
How?
I kept my phone inside my bag and focused on only one thing:
hiking my way to the bus terminal.
And here’s the funny part—I even got a "free" bus ticket from a college student who kindly stepped in to help because I assumed the machine wouldn’t accept foreign cards. Turns out, it actually does… it’s just not as “smart” as I expected. The machine required you to insert the card with a bit more force for it to register—something I didn’t realize because I was used to modern, overly sensitive ones.
It was a small moment, a random " organic encounter " this time?... but a memorable one. It was the first time I experienced a local going the extra mile to make a foreign visitor feel genuine Korean hospitality. I insisted on paying him back, but he refused. Of course, I still found a way to return the kindness—because gestures like that deserve to be reciprocated.
With around 25 minutes to spare, I settled into a convenience store and had a protein drink. The afternoon was starting to warm up, so I felt confident shedding one or two layers—finally, a small victory over the cold.
The bus arrived around 3:10 PM, and before boarding, I made sure to take another photo of the cherry blossoms I had captured the day before—because my iphone... The bus departed right on schedule at 3:20 PM.
My reserved ticket from Jinju to Seoul was at 4:30 PM. With the trip from Junsang-ri taking about 65 minutes, that left me roughly five minutes to make the transfer—just enough time to either succeed gracefully… or sprint like my life depended on it.
I had booked a Premium Bus for the return trip—a little reward to myself for completing my trekking debut. And honestly, after everything, I knew I’d need the comfort. The bus was fully booked, but it didn’t matter. Premium buses in South Korea are on another level—wide reclining “La-Z-Boy” seats, personal screens, curtains for privacy, charging ports… basically, a moving relaxation lounge.
Junsang-ri Intercity Buster Terminal - Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal 7200won
Jinju Intercity Bus Terminal to Nambu Seoul Bus Terminal ( Different route this time )
43000-45000won
* I took the Premium bus. There were also other options available when I got there.
The Economy Type for as low as 21,000 won.
We made a quick stop along the way, and the driver gave us 15 minutes to grab snacks. I, however, spent most of that time trying to decide what to eat… and somehow ended up in a gadget shop checking for a tripod similar to mine. Priorities.
We arrived safely back in Seoul—this time at Nambu Bus Terminal—shortly after 8:00 PM.
I rewarded myself with a bowl of my favorite: kimchi jjigae.
One thing I learned while eating in South Korea—eat where the locals eat. That’s usually where you’ll find the most authentic flavors.
I headed back to my Airbnb, finally took a hot shower, and checked on my locked iPhone… and for reasons I still can’t explain, it somehow unlocked itself through facial recognition.
I went to bed—not to sleep, but to quietly thank God for keeping me safe throughout the journey and for helping me accomplish my goals at Mt. Jirisan.
And as I looked back on my debut—especially Day 1—it all led me to these...
1. When planning, especially on activities that are inserted at the last minute, never rely solely on assumptions or skimmed information. Despite my limited time to dig deeper into vital details about the places I included in my itinerary, I still missed several important points simply because I assumed they were common practice—and not something that could actually break the rules. I mean, who would expect that planning to watch a beautiful sunset could be considered not allowed, right?
Still, that’s not an excuse—just a reminder that what feels safe, familiar, or even traditional doesn’t always mean it’s permissible in every setting.
2. Just because something is doable doesn’t mean it should be done without preparation. I was fortunate to have trained at our local peak, Linabo, which helped condition my legs to adjust to the many stairways of different types scattered throughout Mt. Jirisan’s trails. That preparation made a significant difference in handling the physical demands of the trek.
3. Always factor in real-world delays when building your itinerary. Waiting times, unexpected stops, documentation, and even small decisions can significantly affect your overall schedule.
4. Know the purpose behind rules and limitations. Restrictions like no sunset viewing or limited shelter amenities are not meant to limit enjoyment, but to ensure safety and accountability. Had I known this earlier, I would have opted for a day hike instead—taking the out-and-back trail via Rotary Shelter, even with an 8 AM start.
Still, the entire experience was truly memorable. Despite the flawed parts of my itinerary—which I sincerely apologize for if they caused any confusion or concern among the staff at Mt. Jirisan—I am deeply grateful for their patience and understanding.
5. Preparation goes beyond the physical. Mental readiness, adaptability, and sound decision-making are just as important as strength and endurance.
6. Expect the unexpected—and be flexible. Not everything will go according to plan, and sometimes the best moments and lessons come from unplanned situations.
7. Small human connections can leave the biggest impact. Acts of kindness, even from strangers, can turn simple moments into meaningful memories.
8. Be mindful of local trekking culture. When visiting national parks in South Korea, remember that many locals are highly experienced hikers. They may not say it, but it’s courteous to give way when they pass, as they are often moving with a specific pace and schedule in mind.
9. Train with your actual gear. Always practice carrying a trekking bag with the items you plan to bring. This allows your back, arms, and overall body to adjust to the added weight and effort required on the actual trek.
10. Would I recommend Mt. Jirisan—especially Cheonwangbong Peak—for first-timers?
Definitely yes—but only if points 1–9 are part of your preparation.
There’s still so much more I could share about the experience, but for me, these ten are the most important lessons beginners should keep in mind when planning to conquer Mt. Jirisan’s highest peak.
When is your debut? I would like to hear from you.
If you have questions about climbing Cheonwangbong Peak, please feel free to comment.
If I had to rate my trekking debut at Mt. Jirisan—1 being the lowest and 10 the highest—I would give it a solid 4.
I did enjoy the experience, especially since I discovered a new hobby I could actually see myself getting more into.
But I also realized I missed two important key points that should have been part of my DIY guide framework.
So yes, I probably need a repeat performance soon—this time with only one focus: setting my personal best on both routes. And of course, with a much lighter trekking bag. Pohon!
Thank you so much for spending time reading my first blog article.
Please bear with the editing, layout, and everything else—I’m not really a techy person.
Part 2 will be about another peak I almost conquered, still in South Korea. Why “almost conquered”? Well, you’ll have to check the page again to find out.
Have a great day, and take care always.
Borahae!
Next story... My Night Trek to Inwangsan Peak... Alone... Because the imaginary Jungkook was at Goyang Stadium for the 1st day of the concert. lol!