ARMY BY DAY, HIKER BY NIGHT:
A Magical Hike to Inwangsan Peak
Reviewing My “Well-Researched DIY Trekking Itinerary”
Fresh from my debut hike to Cheonwangbong Peak in Jirisan National Park—and by fresh, I meant less than 24 hours later—I kicked off April 9 with a renewed trekking mindset and a mission: to review the rest of my DIY itinerary and make sure everything was no longer based on assumptions, but on actual rules and regulations.
This mattered even more because that night’s plan involved hiking Inwangsan. And this time, I was absolutely certain (finally!) that night hiking was allowed.
The Inwangsan trail is open 24/7—except on Mondays, when hiking is prohibited. If Monday happened to be a public holiday, then Tuesday becomes the official no-hike day. Fighting!
Why Hike at Night?
Why go there at night? Exactly. I had asked myself the same question while building my itinerary.
Apparently, Inwangsan transforms after dark, and people kept describing it as magical. Naturally, I needed proof. Because let’s be honest—so many for " the content " claims nowadays.
And then I saw it.
The fortress wall stretched across the mountain like a glowing ribbon of gold. Charing! But honestly, it blended beautifully with the soft yellow lights that beamed from the entrance to the peak.
Both Inwangsan and Bugaksan sit right within Seoul, where the city and nature overlap... one of the best features of Seoul. These mountains are interconnected and accessible from multiple entry points, making them a popular combined hiking route.
Planning, however, was crucial.
Parts of Bugaksan had restricted access due to curfew regulations, largely because of its proximity to the Blue House—yes, that Blue House you’ve probably seen in K-dramas.
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So I scheduled my night hike on the 9th, leaving the inter-peak hike for the 11th. Why?
I had just completed a two-day trek, so I gave myself permission to take it slow that morning—maybe walk along the Han River, do some laundry, squeeze in a power nap, and then head to Goyang Stadium. Not to attend the concert, but to observe fellow ARMYs, buy merch, and—catch a glimpse of the members during soundcheck.
Then on the 11th, I had a ticket for the BTS Arirang Goyang Concert… well, technically not inside the stadium, but at Lotte Cinema. Still counts. Lol!
The Rain Check (Literally)
April 9 greeted me with cold rain and zero intention of cooperating.
My plan to walk along the Han River? Immediately postponed.
Instead, I picked up my laundry and headed to a DIY laundromat. There’s something weirdly empowering about doing laundry while traveling. Back home, I usually drop it off and magically retrieve it later. But outside my hometown, domestic or abroad? I become this independent, self-sufficient human who walks to a laundromat, figures out unfamiliar machines, and folds clothes like it's a hobby. ( for the content? not really.... )
Mindset. Mindset.
The rain intensified, as if personally offended by my choice to wear shorts in cold weather. It felt like a challenge.
But my brain had already locked in the plan of going for a walk at Han River for the day, so backing out wasn’t an option.
ARMYs Everywhere
It wasn’t even 10 AM yet, but ARMYs had already taken over the streets, all making their way to Goyang.
I squeezed in a quick nap, set my alarm for 1 PM, and switched outfits—because obviously, this required a different look. I wore my unofficial baseball jersey (with the name, of course) and carried my tote bag hand-painted by my niece, Chloe. Priorities.
I made my way to a station near Hongdae, then walked to the bus stop where shuttle buses were supposed to take ARMYs to Goyang Stadium.
The Bus That Never Came (Well… Sort Of)
Despite the heavy rain and cold winds, ARMYs lined up patiently. The mission was clear: get on a bus, get to the stadium.
Simple in theory.
Not so much in reality.
It took a while before I realized what was happening—the buses were passing by… they just weren’t stopping.
Why?
Because they were already full.
At that point, the energy shifted. Some ARMYs started getting anxious, especially those with standing tickets who needed to queue early. The once orderly line slowly dissolved into decision-making mode: taxi, subway, or blind optimism.
Some people weren’t even heading to Goyang—they just wanted to go home or somewhere else—but they ended up just as confused as the rest of us.
Plot Twist: I Didn’t Go
As for me?
I walked straight into a nearby Daiso.
Because clearly, what I needed in that moment… was a new cellphone tripod.
Naturally.
And just like that, I convinced myself to skip Goyang Stadium altogether and focus on preparing for my night hike instead.
Honestly? Best plot twist of the day.
Because sometimes, the universe blocks your plans… so you can walk into a better one—preferably with fewer crowds, more mountains, and significantly less waiting in the rain.
THE NIGHT HIKE
The route for this activity was pretty straightforward—no complicated twists, just a clear plan. This DIY trail map was intended for April 9 and 11.
April 9 was reserved for the night hike. The goal was to cover half the DIY-map trail... from the starting point to Inwangsan Peak and back, totaling around 5KM+.
Getting to the starting point was easy. Taking a bus was the most convenient option since it stopped directly across from the jump-off point—Donuimun Museum Village. Take note, the Museum Village is only open until 7pm. So, even if this was a night hike, I still had to pass by the area because the alternative starting point was just about 100 feet away.
GOING TO... THE STARTING AREA
As for transportation, the fare depends on whether you are using T-Money or the Climate Card. If your itinerary stays within Seoul, the Climate Card is the better option. It is easy to purchase from convenience stores like CU, 7/11, GS25, or at subway stations. You simply load the card for 1,2,3,5,7... days of unlimited subway and bus rides.
From anywhere in Seoul, you just need to take a bus heading toward Seoul Museum of History or Gyeonghuigung Palace. If coming from Hongdae, Blue Bus 271 is the choice. From Seoul Station, Green Bus 7011 also stops in the same area.
Both buses stop at the same two locations: Seoul Museum of History and Gyeonghuigung Palace. And interestingly, you are NOT supposed to go to either of them.
So… where exactly should you go?
Upon Arriving at The Bus Stop
If taking the Blue Bus from Hongdae, the CITI BANK building would be on the right. After getting off, you need to cross to the other side of the street.
If taking the Green Bus from Seoul Station, the same building would be on the left, you simply need to walk straight ahead after getting off the bus.
My MAGICAL NIGHT HIKE… was it?
I took the Blue Bus 271 around 6:30 PM to Seoul Museum of History and Gyeonghuigung Palace bus stop. On my way to the starting point, I was imagining how loud and lively the ARMYs at Goyang Stadium must have been that time when, out of nowhere, Jimin appeared—don’t worry, not the actual Park Jimin, just a poster of him hanging inside the bus.
I arrived at the Seoul Museum of History and Gyeonghuigung Palace bus stop around 7 PM, and it was already very cold. I had even forgotten to take out the heat packs I brought for Mt. Jirisan from my big bag—classic rookie mistake. Luckily, there was a Starbucks nearby, so I went there first and got myself a venti hot chocolate.
With my raincoat on and warm drink in hand, I finally headed to the starting point at around 7:30 PM.
In the photo, you can see the Blue Bus stop and the CITI Bank building. From that point, I crossed the street and headed to the spot where I took this photo.
Once I spotted the structure just a few steps from where I took the photo above—something almost impossible to miss—I knew I was at the correct starting point.
The Heungwamun Gate, the entrance to Gyeonghuigung Palace.
Donuimun Museum Village was just about 200 meters from the pedestrian lane. From that point, it was simply a matter of following the road, sticking to the right side, and watching for small markers— like this building.
From here, I turned right and continued walking, crossed more pedestrian lanes...
Around 80m...I took the stairs—at least not as steep as the ones in Mt. Jirisan.
the red pathway to the left or a shortcut to the right.
Although the shortcut sounded tempting, I chose the left path—not necessarily because it was easier, but because the view from that side was worth it.
From this point, the route became even simpler. A single road led directly to the entrance of Inwangsan Park, making it nearly impossible to get lost.
At the entrance, there was a 7/11 store that also served as a bus stop. For those who preferred, it was actually possible to start the hike from that point instead.
THE MAGIC OF INWANGSAN PARK AT NIGHT.
The park itself was well-lit and clearly well-maintained. Cherry blossoms were in full bloom, and even though most of the lights were directed toward the fortress wall, the petals were still visible, creating a calm and almost cinematic atmosphere.
The hot chocolate I had bought from Starbucks had already started to cool down, so it was no longer doing a great job as a temporary “hand warmer.” It was raining, and the temperature was around 10°C, but thankfully, I was dressed well enough to stay comfortable.
As I continued walking toward the peak, I kept stopping to take photos—though, I only had two subjects: the fortress wall and the cherry blossoms.
Then suddenly, a chill ran through me.
My focus shifted from quietly enjoying the view to wondering
why the park felt so unusually quiet.
That was when it made sense. It was a weekday—and not just any weekday, but a cold and rainy night. Most people, especially tourists, were likely somewhere else in Seoul—perhaps in Itaewon or Myeongdong—rather than hiking up a mountain.
Which meant one thing: I was completely alone.
Now, to be fair, Seoul is generally a very safe city. But that night, my imagination started to work overtime. Scenes from Korean documentaries and series I had watched began replaying in my mind. It didn’t help that I had recently watched a particularly intense episode about hiking... within Seoul... just days before flying to South Korea.
At that point, I had a realization: all the elements of a suspense story were there—I just didn’t want to be the main character. lol!
So I made a decision. I turned back and decided to return on April 11—
this time, in broad daylight.
Would I recommend hiking Inwangsan Peak at night? Absolutely. The place is safe, peaceful, and beautifully maintained. It was simply my own hesitation—and an overactive imagination—that stopped me from reaching the peak that night.
If you would like to see how the hike looks during the day, check out the Inwangsan Peak: Daytime Hike article, which will be available after the Baegundae Peak story.
Thank you, and happy hiking and trekking.
Saranghae! 💜
