BUKHANSAN:
A Mountain So Beautiful Not Even The Fog Can Stop It From Shining.
From The Highest In Mainland South Korea,
To The Highest Within Seoul.
By: Edsel E. Jeon
South Korea is blessed with countless beautiful mountains, but among all the ones I’ve visited so far, Bukhansan National Park stands out as the most breathtaking... with or without the thick fog.
Mt. Bukhansan is home to several peaks, with three of the most popular being Baegundae (836.5m), Insubong (810.5m), and Mangnyeongdae (799.5m). On a clear day, these three peaks create a striking illusion—like three horns rising from the landscape. This unique formation earned the mountain its nickname, “Samgaksan” (The Three-Horned Mountain).
There are several trails leading to Baegundae, the highest peak of Mt. Bukhansan:
- Ui-dong Trail – The shortest and most popular route, located on the eastern side and accessible via Bukhansan Ui Station. This route covers approximately 4 km if starting from the main entrance.
- Bukhansanseong Trail – Located on the western side, this route spans around 6.8 km and is accessible via Gupabal Station.
- Hidden Wall Trail – Comparable in distance to the Ui-dong trail, but known for its more scenic and slightly more challenging terrain.
What makes Baegundae more popular than the other two peaks is not just its height. Despite its elevation and some demanding sections, it remains the most hiker-friendly among the three.
In contrast, both Insubong and Mangnyeongdae require more than just trekking poles when attempting the summit. These peaks demand proper climbing gear—such as ropes, harnesses, helmets, and other devices—along with sufficient experience and technical climbing skills.
As the highest peak within Seoul and one of the most popular among both locals and tourists, it has become the centerpiece of Bukhansan National Park.
Bukhansan National Park = the protected
area that includes Bukhansan and other mountains and nearby ranges in Seoul.
GETTING THERE… FROM WHEREVER YOU ARE IN SEOUL
The first thing to consider is which part of Mt. Bukhansan you plan to explore. Entry points vary depending on your chosen peak, and most are accessible via train, bus, or even taxi.
For this story, I’ll focus on my route to Baegundae Peak via the Ui-dong Trail.
I started at Bukhansan Ui Station, where my hike officially began. Upon exiting, I was immediately greeted by one of the well-known hiking brands in Korea. From there, I turned left and walked about 250 meters toward Black Yak—specifically to the 5th floor of the building.
HIKING IN SEOUL: FREE GEARS… YES, REALLY.
Did you know you can go hiking in Seoul even without your own gear? Yes—this isn’t a scam. But it’s also not available all year round (and trust me, still bring your own socks.)
Before my trip—back when Mt. Jirisan wasn’t even part of the plan—I came across the Seoul Hiking Tourism Center. It has three branches: Bukhansan, Bugaksan, and Gwanaksan.
Aside from providing trail information, they also offer complete hiking gear rentals, which include:
- jackets, shoes, poles, and other essential items. Name it... they have it.
- locker use
- access to showers
At first, I rented gear through the Klook app (not sponsored.) But on March 3, I received an email informing me that my booking was refunded because all hiking gear would be FREE from March 22 to April 12 for the 2026 Seoul Hiking Week: Spring.
So yes—free gear is seasonal, usually during special events.
Important notes:
- The center opens at 9:00 AM
- You must return the gear before 4:00 PM
- Early hikes (like 4 AM starts) won’t work if you depend on rentals
WHY I STILL WENT TO THE CENTER
Even though I had my own gear… I still went...
Because I wanted to borrow purple gloves to match my outfit... to set my mood as well.
The staff spoke excellent English and gave clear instructions—especially telling me not to exit via the a famous landmark along the trail, which could lead me far from my return point (and possibly make me late returning the gloves.)
GOING TO THE UI-DONG TRAIL ENTRANCE
From the station, you can:
- take a taxi to Baegun Tourist Information Center, or
- walk about 2.5 km as a warm-up
I chose to walk.
Even though the shops were still closed, the route itself was rewarding—lined with hiking stores and scenic surroundings.
The path eventually splits:
- Right → Baegun Tourist Information Center, Ui-Dong Trail Entrance /Arch Cheonmwangmun Gate ( Doseonsa Temple Entrance )
- Left → Yongammun Gate / Fortress Wall
There’s also a comfort room, free anti-insect spray, and vending machine at the information center—last call before the climb.
Important: There are no trash bins around the area... even inside the comfort room. Bring your own trash bag.
THE START OF THE TRAIL
Of course, I started with a selfie. Then bought 2 extra bottles of water... and entered the trail.
Less than 250 meters, the fog started rolling in—getting thicker with every step upward. The temperature was around 10°C, and that was just the beginning.
What should have been a short hike turned into a long one—thanks to my documentation duties (aka stopping every few minutes for photos and videos)...
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With my newly found hiking companions, we followed the map provided by the tourism center. Before reaching the next landmark, we could already hear soft chimes and bells carried by the wind.
That led us to Insuam Hermitage—a peaceful stop where, on a clear day, you can see Insubong Peak and even rock climbers in action. Unfortunately, the fog had other plans that day.
STAIRS… AND MORE STAIRS
From there, we continued upward, passing the Bukhansan shelter ( not the same with Baegun Shelter ) and eventually reaching the iconic feature of Korean trails:
Stairs. Endless stairs.
This was also where I somehow became a part-time acting coach—teaching my new found friends how to “act natural” for videos… which meant I had to climb, go back down to retrieve my phone, and climb again. So yes, some sections were basically done twice.
Then came a section that felt straight out of a movie—like The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring, where fog slowly creeps through the forest and you half-expect orcs to appear from nowhere.
But I wasn’t scared this time… I was with another couple.
They’d probably get eaten first.
Joke. Just kidding.
Just when I thought the stairs were finally over… there were more... stairs.
To reach Baegundae Peak:
- Turn right at the gate
- Walk beside it
- There was also a trail leading to Baegundae Peak just past the gate. The staff at the Hiking Center had specifically advised against using it due to the weather conditions.
BAEGUN SHELTER: THE FINAL REST STOP
The next stop was Baegun Shelter.
I didn’t get to take photos—I got too busy exploring one of its most impressive features.
As a nurse, I truly appreciated how much South Korea invests in hiker safety. I had seen AEDs and first aid kits in Mt. Jirisan, but here, I found something even more impressive:
An electronic CPR training dummy with a full instructional video guide.
We stayed for a while—resting, eating snacks, and enjoying the warmth of the shelter.
Unlike other shelters, Baegun is not for overnight stays. It’s simply a place to rest or take cover when conditions change.
And from here… begins the final push to the peak.
THE FINAL STRETCH...
This was the area just after Baegun
Shelter where many hikers paused—either to plan their strategy for the final
push to the summit or to reconsider and just stay behind…
with the cat. Yes, there’s actually a cat there, and apparently, it
occasionally climbs up with hikers all the way to the peak.
The distance between the rest stop and Baegundae Peak is only about 500 meters—maybe even less. But despite the short distance, the steep, rocky ascent and a few other factors can significantly slow you down:
The factors include:
1. Crowd – If you go on a weekend, the
final ascent and descent using the metal bars can take at least 45 minutes per
direction since it often operates like a one-way flow.
2. Weather – Fog, rain, wind, and
everything in between.
3. Acting… or documentation. lol! ( Of course, only when there's no traffic. )
One thing I learned while hiking in Korea was to always give way to the person behind you—especially the locals. They moved fast, confidently, and with techniques that clearly came from experience, so it made sense to let them pass and take the lead.
Unlike beginners like me, who were more focused on stopping for photos and documenting every view, many hikers were on a different mission altogether. For them, it wasn’t just a hike—it was a timed climb with a clear goal in mind.
A few steps from the deck where the cat was patiently watching people begin their ascent, you’d come across this climb—where common sense and a whole lot of confidence were absolutely required.
Interestingly, across almost all the
peaks I visited, the ascent was mostly on smooth rock surfaces. But on the way
down, those same sections were often carved into steps—making the descent
noticeably easier.
On the way up, the lady I had met earlier at the start of the trail eventually decided not to continue. Apparently, she had a strong fear of heights and was only attempting the climb to support her partner.
Working my way to the peak, and out
of nowhere, a strong halmeoni —the kind that instantly reminds you of Strong
Girl Bong-soon—appeared and practically sprinted upward as if her feet were
magnetized to the rocky surface.
What amazed me even more was how the power of BTS to connect people could still be felt—even with almost zero visibility. At one point, I casually mentioned BTS to the strong halmeoni, and someone nearby immediately responded that she was an ARMY too… but unfortunately, the fog did not reveal her identity.
Then, just before reaching the summit, I saw the same halmeoni already making her way back down. She said something, but I couldn’t quite catch it, so I just replied, “Okay… then…” What a spectacle she was.
At this point, I was completely alone—no one to ask for help in taking photos or videos during my final ascent to the peak. I had no plans of retrieving my camera like I did on the stairs earlier.
After what felt like an eternity of pulling myself up using the metal bars, I finally reached the highest peak in Seoul—Baegundae.
I quickly took a few photos and a short video, then started preparing for my descent when an ajusshi arrived and asked if I could take a photo of him. Of course, I agreed.
He gave detailed instructions, pointing in different directions while the wind practically screamed around us. “Hana, dul, set…” I counted as I took the shots. I handed his phone back, but after checking it, he simply said, “Again.”
He then pointed to the stone marker and signalled an “X,” so I assumed he didn’t want it in the frame. I nodded. Next, he pointed to the flag instead, so I adjusted and followed his direction. He posed again—different angles, different poses. I probably took around five shots.
Still not satisfied, we repeated the process once more. Finally, after the last set, he took his phone back without further comment, simply saying thank you.
As I was about to leave, a lady arrived and I overheard him asking if she could also take his photos. So… I guess he wasn’t fully satisfied with mine either. lol.
The descent was just as interesting as the ascent. Traffic started to build up along the narrow sections.
At one
point, I felt the need to ask a guy—who had almost slipped while passing me—if
he was sure about continuing to the peak with his shoes, especially since some
parts were quite slippery.
Then I spotted someone who perfectly embodied the phrase “unbothered by the cold.” While everyone else was layering up, this person looked completely unaffected by the weather.
I stopped by the shelter again, hoping to see the couple I met earlier, but they had already headed back. Just before reaching Baegun Gate—where I had left my umbrella—I heard a familiar voice. Two ladies were sitting nearby, having snacks and chatting. I was almost certain one of them was the “unknown ARMY” I had heard near the peak.
So, I confidently asked which one of them was the ARMY… and to my surprise, both said they were. They were also in Seoul for the Sunday concert. And just like that, I found new companions—we walked back together to the trailhead, talking about nothing but BTS the entire way.
I made my way back to the Seoul Hiking Tourism Office, returned the gloves I borrowed, and was given a 30% discount voucher for Black Yak. Buying hiking gear was already part of my itinerary—but scheduled for Monday, after my Mt. Gwanaksan hike and before my 9 PM flight—so I decided to save the voucher and use it at another branch.
REALIZATIONS:
Compared to the final 300-meter ascent to Cheonwangbong Peak, I found the final approach to Baegundae Peak more challenging overall. There’s really only one way to do it—pulling yourself up using metal bars while making sure your footing stays secure on rocky surfaces that can become slippery.
Cheonwangbong demanded determination and resilience, while Baegundae required confidence above all else.
As for scenery, even without
blooming trees or flowers, Bukhansan National Park still stood out. I’m not
entirely sure if it’s the most visited, though—because from what I experienced,
my Sunday destination, Dobongsan, felt like a party of its own.
But that’s a story for another day… or days. Up next: my day hike adventure at Inwangsan.
Thank you for reading my story.
Take care.
Borahae!
